When you return from a holiday, you usually wax eloquent about what a great time you had. After a holiday in Srinagar, you need say nothing. People look at you with envy as they try to picturise the snowclad mountains, the emerald green valleys, sky skimming chinars, the pretty gardens and lakes, and of course the heavenly weather. Such is the region's beauty that when Jahangir, the Mughal emperor, set sight on it, he exclaimed "Gar firdaus, ruhe zamin ast, hamin asto, hamin asto, hamin asto (If there is a heaven on earth, it's here, it's here, it's here).