Darjeeling Holiday Packages | Holidays in Darjeeling | Hotels in Darjeeling

Travelers Reviews

	I’ll be Back, Land of the Thunderbolt Supriya Newar

Basically say adios to all the unavoidable vices of city life and park yourself forever at one of the many benches at the Bandstand Mall to gaze at the mist passing you by. That’s what you get when you sit at the Darjeeling Mall and take in the sights and sounds.

The glistening Himalayas, the floating fog caressing your hair, a pleasant breeze that persuades you to order yet another plate of steaming hot momos with a cuppa, and dozens of Nepalese children with red cheeks and the odd Lhasa apso dog ambling around. Some places never lose their appeal. Darjeeling is undoubtedly one place you can’t have too much of.

Once ruled by the Kings of Sikkim, the Darjeeling region was developed into a hill station by the British East India Company in the 1800s, and it came to be known as the ‘Queen of the Hills’. ‘Dorjeling’, that literally translates into the ‘land of the thunderbolt’ has withstood the test of time and continues to ooze an unmatched charm that draws to it tourists from 6-60, despite innumerable illegally constructed houses, forests being cut down, and a constant influx of tourists who have little or no civic sense.

The journey to Darjeeling is as interesting as the place itself. However, beware of the numerous touts who will surround you as soon you get off at the Bagdogra Airport or the New Jalpaiguri (NJP) train station. They will typically try to sell you some accommodation and earn a cut. If your budget allows you, hire an exclusive van that will whizz you straight to the land of the thunderbolt. It should cost you about Rs. 800; the rates go up if you hire a fancier vehicle.

If you are lucky enough, you’ll have the one of its kind Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, fondly referred to as The Toy Train, chugging along to Darjeeling with you. If you have lots of time to spare, you could even take the toy train and experience history, but be warned because the toy train takes much longer than the road journey. This miniature train, another colonial gift, loops and switchbacks its way up the steep mountainsides from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling and has seen several Bollywood melodies shot aboard it, including the evergreen ‘Mere sapno ki rani’ and the more recent ‘Yeh hawaiyen gungunayein’ from Parineeta. En route to the town, take in the numerous tea gardens that produce blends considered among the world’s finest, and the fragrant pines, rhododendrons and birch.

The moment you enter Darjeeling, you’ll immediately be hit by the cool, crisp mountain breeze. Given its altitude of 7,000 ft above sea level, this town remains cool through the year and the temperature dips to as low as 1 or 2 degrees Celsius during peak winters.

Once you have dumped your luggage, you could be just sit idle and take in the scenic beauty over hot cups of Darjeeling tea (or some red wine purchased from the lovely wine store on the mall) or delve into a host of activities that the town offers. The most popular is the pony ride, which is more of a joy ride than anything as these ponies just about strut along the bend. Puny rides, they should be called! Given the water shortage and the weather, the ponies are bathed rarely, so do not expect a glossy coat!

The Darjeeling Gymkhana is another great spot for all sports enthusiasts. Offering billiards, table tennis and badminton, the Gymkhana Club is accessible if after you take a temporary membership. However, the club is often short of rackets, so if you are into badminton or table tennis, bring your own racket.

If flora is what you are looking for, then head to the Botanical Gardens. In fact, cut through various lanes and bylanes and walk to it, as it’s all the way downhill. But on the way up, it’s quite a steep walk, so make sure you’re sporting your walking shoes. Dotted with couples all across, the Llyod’s Botanical Gardens is more than a century old and is built on 40 acres of land that was gifted by W. Llyod, as the name suggests. The garden is a riot of colours with a beautiful collection of rhododendrons, orchids and magnolia besides a glass house full of alpine flowers. If you have seen Dev Anand’s Jewel Thief, you will guess that this garden appears in it.

No visit to Darjeeling can be complete without a visit to Ghoom, which is about 6 km away from the main town. Ghoom is home to the oldest monastery called the Yiga Cholling Monastery that enshrines an image of 'the Coming Buddha' or the Maitriya Buddha.

One of my all-time favourite spots in Darjeeling (and probably anywhere in India) is the lovely and unabashedly colonial Windamere Hotel. If you are one of those people who like to sit back and get immersed in the skyscape over gin and tonic, then come to Windamere. Though bang on the Mall, Windamere takes you far away from the madding crowd with a spectacular view of the Kanchenjunga. Being a heritage property, it is obviously going to dent your pocket substantially, but if that isn’t an issue, then there can be no better choice for accommodation. And if the tariff poses to be prohibitive, then you can do what I do. Go and have at least one tea and one dinner there. The dinner promises to be a wonderful spread and there is generally a live piano recital whilst the tea is served outdoors when the sun begins to settle down. You will never want to leave.

Talking about activities, how can a holiday be complete without shopping? Once again Darjeeling offers something for all. Walk on Nehru Road leading to the Chowrasta and you’ll have Nepalese and Bhutia women selling everything from clothes, (including cheap innerwear in eclectic colours), umbrellas (everyone in Darjeeling carries an umbrella through the year), torches, watches and much more. But be ready to bargain real hard! Must buy is the lovely silver jewellery available at many stores, the absolutely delicious chocolates at Glenary’s and of course lots of Darjeeling tea packets to take home. Incidentally, Glenary’s has the only plush pub which is again worth a visit for the charged up atmosphere and some great music by a local band.

Do also hop over to Das Studio, the oldest photographers of Darjeeling who have practically chronicled the town. Also peek into the charming Oxford Book Store that proudly announces, ‘Browsers required; experience not necessary’!

I have always felt that the most difficult thing about hill stations is leaving them. So though Darjeeling matches up to any Indian city when it comes to bad civic sense and bad urban planning (forests have been cut up and there is construction all over the place), it still tugs at your heart and you don’t want to say goodbye to the flora, to the happy local faces, to the adorable wooden cottages, the wonderful weather, the ever-British Mall, the fading sounds of the ‘choo choo’ train, the reassuring church bells and most of all to the majestic Himalayas that stand dauntingly tall.

I descend from the land of the thunderbolt with one thought: I’ll be back soon.

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