Introduction

Harmandir Sahib, popularly referred to as Golden Temple, is the spiritual epicenter of Sikhism. A visit to Harmandir Sahib is an act of piety for every Sikh. In much the same manner as Mecca is to Muslims. For tourists, the gold leafed marble monument in the middle of a blue pool is at once arresting. The continuous strains of kirtan and Gurbani recitals, and people performing ‘Kar Seva’ - that highlights the religion’s egalitarian ethos - add up to leave a lasting impression. Such has been the magical pull of this spiritual place that it has been getting more footfalls than even the Taj Mahal. And its draw isn’t confined only to the Sikh community.

On entering the complex, many start by doing a Parikarma or walking the pathway that runs along the banks of its rectangular Sarovar or tank. En route the Parikrama are many spots such as Thara Sahib dedicated to Guru Tegh Bahadur, and the Baba Deep Singh shrine among others that honor people who have played a significant part in Sikh history.

Visitors then head towards the Harmandir Sahib in the middle of the Sarovar. The temple has four doors facing East, West, North and South respectively, and is connected by a causeway. The day begins early at the Harmandir Sahib with kirtans or hymns. This is followed by a solemn procession from the Akal Takht to Harmandir Sahib. Sri Guru Granth Sahib, the holy book, is carried in a palanquin on the shoulders of Sevadars or volunteers from the former to the latter. The last Sikh Guru, Gobind Singh, ordained that after him all Sikhs should lead their lives in accordance with message of all the Gurus enshrined in the Granth Sahib, and elevated it to the level of a Guru. Ever since it has come to be known as the Guru Granth Sahib, and is worshipped by Sikhs.

The early morning congregation rises as the holy book Sri Guru Granth Sahib is placed on the throne in the center of the sanctum in Harmandir Sahib. This is followed by reading of the verses from the book. After praying, visitors are welcome to partake of food at the community kitchen called lungar. This concept was introduced by Guru Amar Dass, the third Guru, to eradicate the prevailing caste system in society.

Visitor then have the option of exploring the entire complex that houses among other things the Akal Takht, the museum, smaller gurudwaras and the living quarters such as the Guru Nanak Niwas and Guru Hargobind Niwas.

The museum is the ideal place to get a grip on the story of Harmandir Sahib. Back in the 14th century CE, this site had a small lake surrounded by a wooded area. Located on the Grand Trunk Road, it was just 45 kilometers (28 miles) from Lahore. Travelers and ascetics often stopped by to meditate and rest. According to some accounts Gautama Buddha too stayed here for some time and recommended it as an ideal place for sadhus and rishis to meditate. Later Guru Nanak Dev also came to this place.

It was, however, Guru Ram Das’ (fourth Guru) idea to build a temple here. Under his initiative the existing lake was enlarged and a small community settled down around it. It was during the leadership of the fifth Guru Arjan that the Harmandir Sahib was built. It was completed in 1601.

The foundation stone of the historic building was laid by a Muslim Saint named Hazrat Mian Mir of Lahore in December 1588. Guru Arjan by choosing a holy man from another faith to lay the stone showed the world the true character of his religion, one that promoted interfaith dialogue and interaction.

Subsequent years saw much turmoil at Harmandir Sahib. The Afghans regularly raided it. Mughal Emperor Jahangir too didn’t take the growing influence of the place well and ordered the killing of Guru Arjan on the pretext of the Guru providing refuge to Jahangir’s rebel son Prince Khusrau Mirza. After much bloodshed through the interim years, in 1802 Maharaja Ranjit Singh won back the control of the town back for the Sikhs. After bathing in the sarovar at Harmandir Sahib, he gave a grant for the rebuilding of the Harmandir in marble and covered it with gold leaf. The golden dome that we see today was installed between 1803 and 1830 by him. The structure today is an art-admirer’s treasure trove with intricate inlays and brilliant frescoes.

Some important celebrations at the Golden Temple include the birth anniversaries of Guru Nanak (in November) and Guru Gobind Singh (in January). The other important occasions are Baisakhi (in April) and the installation anniversary of the Guru Granth Sahib (in September).

Special Attributes

The most visited monument in India, yes more than the Taj Mahal

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Dress conservatively

Connectivity

Well connected by rickshaws and auto rickshaws

Enjoyed by

Religious minded, culture and history buffs

Exposure

The marble flooring heats up during the day especially in summer.

Avoidable Season

May, June

Facilities

Basic, plan accordingly

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction.

Tip

Cover your head

Type of site

Religious complex/Gurudwara