Introduction

Khem Karan is a tiny border town that saw fierce action during the 1965 Indo-Pak war. A couple of hours drive from Amritsar, Khem Karan tehsil today is better known for the Mazaar of Baba Sheikh Braham. A Sufi saint revered by people on both sides of the border, the mazaar is the only place in India where Pakistani citizens are allowed to make an unofficial visit without a visa. Such is the faith in the saint that this is a zone of piece. A place where soldiers from both sides periodically lay down their arm to come and pray! A big fair is organized towards the end of the monsoon when people at large from both sides of the border come to pay their respects at the mazaar. It is believed that a wish made here is always fulfilled.

Writes Stephen Alter in his book ‘Amritsar to Lahore’: "Situated about a hundred meters inside Indian Territory, near the village of Khem Karan, is the tomb of Baba Sheikh Braham, a Sufi mystic who was a contemporary of Guru Nanak. His samadhi has been turned into a shrine that is visited by devotees from both sides of the border. Even during the two wars in 1965 and 1971, when pitched battles were fought in the region, the Baba's tomb was left unharmed."

A BSF camp is in charge of overseeing the activities at the mazaar. Security is eased every Thursday for people to visit. A few hundred meters away is an electric fence maintained by India to stop cross border infiltration.

Special Attributes

The only place in India where Pakistani citizens are allowed to make an unofficial visit without a visa

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Dress conservatively

Connectivity

May, June

Enjoyed by

Religious minded, culture and history buffs

Exposure

You will be inside the shrine.

Avoidable Season

May, June

Facilities

Basic, plan accordingly

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction.

Tip

Make allowance for a dusty, bumpy drive

Type of site

Religious site/Tomb of Sufi saint