Introduction

The queue outside the Joint Check Post at the Wagah border crossing between India and Pakistan is always serpentine and zealous - especially the Indian side which receives some 2000 spectators every day to witness the dramatic ceremony. As you walk in through the pathway running alongside the border for about 50 meters past the curled moustaches of the Pakistani Rangers, a sense of awe seeps through you. The Joint Check Post at Wagah, about 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) east of Pakistan’s most ancient city Lahore and west of India’s Amritsar city, forms the stage for this high decibel flag-lowering performance. Find a suitable seat in the amphitheatre from where you can clearly view the goose-stepping of Indian and Pakistani soldiers as they match steps and try to outdo each other in a show of ceremonial pomp. The atmosphere in the amphitheatre is one of patriotism. You will see cheery spectators hurtling with their cameras and other paraphernalia – the border post comes alive with an incredible burst of energy, enthusiasm, and an unmistakable nationalist verve.

The show begins with the playing of popular patriotic songs and remembering the war heroes who laid down their lives for the country. This is followed by a perfectly coordinated daily ritual in which the Indian BSF and Pakistani Rangers goose-step, exchange glowering looks, issue mimicked threats, and show anger and determination. The crowd cheers on by calling out ‘Jai Hind’ alternated with cries of ‘Pakistan Zindabad’ from the opposite side. In India patriotic songs continue to thump out of massive speakers, while the Pakistanis rejoice in religious music. Soon after, the gates are opened; the two soldiers approach each other, shake hands, and start to lower the Indian and Pakistani flags fixed on the high poles at the foot of the gates. At this point the din in the amphitheatre steeps into silence. The only sound being that of the clumping of boots and the heaving of the soldiers. The flags are carefully folded and carried back into the respective camps. The ceremony reaches a crescendo with the soldiers returning to the white border line for the final martial handshake. After this no glance is exchanged. The respective gates are slammed close, followed by the blowing of trumpet to mark the end of the great ceremony.

The 1947 partition of the British Indian empire lead to the marking of this long white line that defines the fragile border between the two hostile neighbors, separated by two heavy gates about 2 meters apart on either side. The opposite side has seating for 1000 visitors on either side of their Baab-e-Azadi or Gate of Freedom. The Indian side fervently sings and dances, while the neighbors observe a sedate ceremony by staying seated – men on one side and women on the other.

The event is a true spectacle. Worth experiencing!

Taxis are the best option to make the journey to Wagah. Rs 400 for small vehicles and Rs 900 for bigger vehicles are the average charges. The 30-kilometer drive takes an hour.

Special Attributes

The palpable energy and enthusiasm on either side of the border as the martial flag-lowering ceremony takes place.

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants

Dressing restrictions

Dress is whatever you find comfortable.

Connectivity

Taxi is an option

Enjoyed by

History lovers

Exposure

You will be under the open sky. The event takes place in early evening and the weather is quite pleasant around then.

Avoidable Season

May, June

Facilities

Basic, plan accordingly

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction.

Tip

Need to scamper for a good seat as the event draws big crowds

Type of site

Border Post