Introduction

The primary attraction of Bikaner, Junagarh Fort, or ‘Old Fort’ is in an excellent state of preservation even after more than four centuries of existence. Originally called ‘Chintamani’, the construction of this massive fort-palace took five years, and was supervised by Karan Chand, the Prime Minister of Rai Singh, Bikaner’s third sovereign. Enveloped within the safe confines of a 986 meter (3235 feet) long wall made of red sandstone with moat attachment, the Fort had been attacked a number of times, but never conquered. For this particular feat, equal credit should be given to the forbidding expanse of the Thar Desert, as well.

The oldest part of the fort-palace is Lal Niwas, a structure that dates back to the 16th century and owes its name to its red and gold floral motifs. On the other hand, the newest portion, the Durbar Niwas (Palace of Coronation) or Ganga Singh Hall, built by Ganga Singh was constructed as late as the 20th century.

Two colossal elephant statues are on perennial guard at the east-facing main entrance gate, known as the Karan Pol. The other entrance, Daulat Pol, is where a tragic episode in history has left behind its indelible imprint. Two dozen women, whose husbands laid down their lives while protecting the Fort, resorted to self-immolation (johar) to protect their own dignity, and left behind their hand prints on the wall to ensure that their supreme act of sacrifice is never forgotten.

Within the premises of the Fort lie a number of architectural marvels that range from the ornamentally opulent to the artistically awe-inspiring. The most outstanding example of architectural artistry is the Anup Mahal. Built in 1690 by the eponymous Maharaja Anup Singh, this magnificent, multi-storied ‘Hall of Private Audience’ was where the king would entertain his guests. The lime plaster walls shine with a luster and are coated with red and gold lacquer work and mirrors. The white plaster pillars are embellished with gold leaf design. While mosaic tiles adorn the ceiling of Anup Mahal, the floor is covered by a luxurious carpet woven by the inmates of the Bikaner prisons. Once a host to coronation ceremonies, the Mahal is where the treasures of the Royal family are now on display.

The Karan Mahal, which opens onto the main courtyard, was built during the 17th century, to mark a victory in a battle over the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. With gold-leaf paintings on its pillars and walls, the ornamentation in this Hall of Public Audience, though lavish, is somewhat subdued as compared to the other parts of the Fort. The Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace), named after queen Chand Kanwar, with its tiny rooms, is undoubtedly the most sumptuous of them all. On display are deities carved in marble panels and a number of paintings embellished with precious stones.

The Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), the oldest of the palaces, which was constructed under the supervision of Raja Rai Singhji was later remodeled during Gaj Singh’s reign for his queen Phool Kanwar. This is where lies the small, low bed on which Rao Bika used to retire during the night. The bed was so constructed that he could lie down with his feet touching the ground, facilitating him to get on to his feet instantly in case of any danger. Meretriciously decorated with wall paintings of flowers, birds and royal emblems, the Hall is a truly fine example of Rajput art.

The blue Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace), as the name suggests, depicts the most cherished of natural phenomena in an arid land—paintings of rain-carrying clouds, lightning and torrential downpour. A brainchild of Maharaja Sardar Singh, a music aficionado, whose personal favorite was the Raag Malhar, which is usually played during the monsoon, the palace showcases the king’s own Mayur Veena and Garud Veena. The Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds), was where the king used to take shelter during the scorching summers. Over his bed lies a huge mirror, which reflected movements in the courtyard below, thus alerting the king of any impending danger.

While the Fort palace itself is awe-inspiring to say the least, another of its numerous interesting facets is the fort museum housed within the Durbar Niwas. The fascinating array of exhibits includes a collection of Rajput weaponry, a staggeringly heavy 56kg (124 lb) suit of armor, shields made of camel hide, elephant guns, a dagger with an in-built pistol, photographs, paintings, and a 5th century sandalwood throne among others. Rising above all items on display is a meticulously maintained biplane from the era of World War I. Piloted by the ruler of Bikaner during the War; it was a gift to him from the British.

Special Attributes

The best preserved and most magnificent of all the forts in Rajasthan.

Nuisance

Local guides, amateur photographers, hawkers selling artifacts and snacks

Dressing restrictions

Dress in whatever you find comfortable.

Connectivity

Tongas, Auto-rickshaws, private taxis.

Enjoyed by

All

Exposure

Carry sun block and bottles of water. If you plan to stay beyond sundown, light woollens are not a bad idea. During monsoons, umbrellas or waterproof gear is a must.

Avoidable Season

April, May, June, July, August.

Facilities

Basic, prepare accordingly.

Things Not Allowed

Arms and Weapons, Liquor, Drugs.

Tip

Wear light shoes, because the fort can only be seen on foot, and it takes up a considerable amount of time.

Type of site

Fort