Introduction

For those with a taste for the 'offbeat', a day trip to Deshnok, a small village to the south of Bikaner is an unforgettable experience. Derived from the word 'dus-nok', or ten corners - referring to the formation that combined the corners of ten villages - Deshnok's Karnimata temple has been featured in Ripley's Believe it or Not as the only holy shrine in the world where rats are revered.

A major pilgrimage site for Jains, the temple is dedicated to Karnimata, a 14th century mystic and ascetic who, worked for the upliftment of the deprived and the downtrodden and it is believed also possessed miraculous powers. According to a legend, when Yama (Lord of Death) refused Karnimata's request to revive the son of a Charan (a traditional bard and a worshipper of Karnimata), who had drowned, a scorned Karnimata restored him to life herself and pledged that then on, no one belonging to the tribe would ever die and would instead take the form of rodents, before being reborn into the tribe; thus depriving Yama of collecting human souls.

Construction of a temple dedicated to Karnimata began in the 15th century, but it was only during the reign of Maharaja Ganga Singh, during the early 1900s, that the structure attained completion. It is he who donated the magnificent silver entrance gates to the temple and a number of sculpted pieces of white marble. However, it is not the fascinating architecture, nor the 2.5 ft tall idol of Karnimata replete with a tiara and garlands that attract hundreds of devotees to the temple; but a chance to offer grains, milk, sugarballs and sweetmeat to the 20,000 rodent inhabitants.

Known as 'Kaba', it is believed these rats are where the souls of the devotees of Karnimata are housed, and hence, they are treated with utmost respect. A number of holes and tunnels have been especially dug within the temple premises to help the rats scurry around freely, which they do completely oblivious of the humans who throng the place everyday. Moreover, the courtyard is covered with a wired mesh screen to protect the rats from birds. Twice a year the karnimata fair is held at Deshnok, during the time of Navratras (March-April and September-October).

Special Attributes

A temple whose premises are inhabited by 20,000 rodents, which are revered, worshipped and fed by thousands of devotees who consider them to be ancestors of the local residents.

Nuisance

Beggars, hawkers

Dressing restrictions

Dress appropriately, avoid wearing short or revealing clothes.

Connectivity

Buses, private taxis.

Enjoyed by

Those who have a fascination for the strange and unusual.

Exposure

During summers the marble floors of the temple on which one has to walk without shoes become unimaginably hot.

Avoidable Season

March-April and September-October (during the Karnimata fairs).

Facilities

Basic, prepare accordingly.

Things Not Allowed

Shoes.

Tip

It is considered extremely auspicious if one catches sight of a white rat inside the temple. Also, it is considered a good omen if a rodent crawls over one's foot. Keep your socks on once inside the temple as a precaution against bites and scratches.

A word of extreme caution, avoid killing or hurting a rat. In case a rodent gets killed, the perpetrator has to seek redemption by donating a rat made of solid gold to the temple!

Type of site

Temple