Gangtok is one of the more popular hill destinations in India’s north east region. Most travelers visit Gangtok with the idea of catching a glimpse of the spectacular Kanchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world. On a bright, sunlit day it is a sight to behold.
Part of the lower Shivalik hills of mighty Himalayas, Gangtok stands at an altitude of 5047 feet (1538.3 meters). Gangtok roughly means ‘Majestic or Lofty Hill’. Prayer flags fluttering in gay abandon, lamas busy mumbling holy chants, brightly painted pagoda roofed houses lined with begonias and orchids, are some the signature sights of this hill town.
Lepchas, Bhutias and Nepalis comprise the main ethnic groups of the town. In recent years, Gangtok has emerged as a centre of Tibetology. Travelers interested in Tibetan Buddhism and culture make a beeline to the town’s many monasteries and institutions of learning.
History
Sikkim was originally inhabited by a mix of tribes namely the Naong, Chang and Mon, all of whom soon came to be known as ‘Lepchas’. They were very peace loving people, deeply religious and worshipped nature. When migrants (the present day Bhutias) from Tibet started filtering in, the process of conversion to Buddhism successfully started among the locals. In order to establish their presence the immigrants sealed the new order by appointing Phuntsok Namgyal as the temporal and spiritual leader of Sikkim.
By the 18th century Nepal started making inroads into Sikkim under the leadership of Raja Prithvi Narayan Shah who fermented the rebellious elements in Sikkim. There were serious differences between the Nepalese settlers and the earlier inhabitants (Bhutias and Lepchas) of Sikkim and this led to British intervention.
The British became interested in Darjeeling (then part of Sikkim) also, both as a hill resort and an outpost from where Tibet and Sikkim would be easily accessible. Following a lot of pressure from the British, Sikkim finally gifted Darjeeling to British India with the understanding that a certain amount would be paid as an annual subsidy to Sikkim. The British turned back from their word and did not pay the compensation. The relations suffered to an extent that when Dr. Campbell, the Superintendent of Darjeeling and Dr. Hooker visited Sikkim in connection with the latter's botanical research; they were captured and imprisoned in 1849. The British issued an ultimatum and the two captives were released after a month of detention.
Frequent clashes resulted in a stern action when a strong force was sent in 1861 that resulted in the capture of the capital Tumlong and the signing of a Treaty between the British and Sikkim. The Britishers appointed Claude White as the first political officer in Sikkim in 1889 and Chogyal Thutob Namgyal was virtually under his supervision.
In 1947 when India became independent, the head of Sikkim managed a deal with India that granted it the special status of ‘protectorate’. By the beginning of 1970 there were political upheavals. It soon became the 22nd state of the Indian Union on 16th may 1975.
Getting Around
There are well managed taxi stands with standard charges across town. Having said that, the town can be done by foot! The main MG road is beautifully laid out with flowers, fountains, benches and lights. It is a pedestrian-only zone. There are plenty of connecting stairways between different levels of the town. Walking through these lanes, nooks and the crannies, gives one a true feel of the place.
Tourist Traps in the City
Travel during monsoon months can be a tricky affair due to landslides. Also, during monsoons the views are very often obstructed by clouds. Avoid this season except if you are specifically going to enjoy rains in up country.
Local Custom
Drinking Chaang is very much a part of local custom. Fermented alcoholic beverages have strong ritual importance among the various ethnic groups of Sikkim. It is often served in main meals among the alcohol-drinking communities. It is usually a mild alcoholic and sweet-sour fermented cereal-based beverage. It can sometimes be strong and very intoxicating.
The two major shopping areas are the lower bazaar and M.G. market. These include finely worked metal images, bowls, prayer wheels, musical instruments, thangkas, carpets, pullovers, caps, socks and chunky jewellery.
Communications
Several shops, hotels and travel agents all over Gangtok have STD telephones with meters. There are internet cafes in town; charges for a half-hour are normally Rs.10. AirTel, Reliance, Aircel, Tata Indicom, Vodafone and BSNL are the main cell service providers.
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