Introduction

An unlikely beach resort, Chapora is tucked under a canopy of trees on the muddy southern shore of an estuary. Built by Adil Shah, the king of Bijapur, on the southern headland of the Chapora River, Chapora Fort has a commanding view of the Vagator Beach and the nearby Anjuna Beach.

The most striking feature of the old fort is its red laterite bastion, visible from a distance, crowning the rocky bluff. It was rebuilt by the Portuguese in 1617 on the site of an Islamic structure and was deserted in the 19th century. Though much of it is in ruins, the views of the coast from its weed-infested ramparts are still breathtaking. Chapora Fort can be easily accessed from the Vagator side of the hill. In fact at low tide you can even walk around the bottom of the headland via the anchorage, and further on to the secluded coves beyond it to Vagator, and then climb up the hill from there. If you intend spending a night at this village, you can stay up at one of the many guesthouses lining the main road, though most lodging options are long stay houses in the woods.

When hunger pangs strike, head to the main street housing affordable little cafes and restaurants. Most do a smattering of traditional Goan cuisine, and an eclectic variety of seafood and wine. ‘Welcome’ is a popular place offering a selection of reasonably priced seafood, Western and vegetarian dishes, with techno and reggae music playing relentlessly in the background.

If you have some time at hand, explore the understated Chapora Beach on the opposite side of the ancient fort, on the northern side of the headland from Vagator. Hidden in the shadow of the Portuguese fort, this grayish beach mostly remains secluded and has a deep sense of stillness.

Special Attributes

The ancient, weed-infested ramparts of the Chapora Fort opens up a stunning vista of the coast and an endless horizon. Portions of the popular Hindi film ‘Dil Chahta Hai’ were shot here.

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Dress is whatever you find comfortable.

Connectivity

Chapora can be reached by taking a direct bus from Panaji (also known as Panjim) that makes three rounds in the day. If you are visiting from Mapusa, you can take a direct bus that arrives every 15 minutes with departures until 1900 hours. Besides, motorcycle taxis can be hired from around the banyan tree at the far end of the main street, near where the buses pull in.

Enjoyed by

Backpackers

Exposure

You will be under the open sky of Goa. The sun can get harsh near afternoon, so you are advised to carry sunshades, a sun block cream and a bottle of drinking water.

Avoidable Season

May, June, July, August, September

Facilities

From Chapora you can continue to Anjuna Beach, a short drive to the south, or stop for a seafood meal at one its many inexpensive eateries lining the main street.

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction.

Tip

Begin early in the day so that you can catch a breathtaking view of the sea whipped white by the wind, from the fort's weed-infested ramparts.

Type of site

Ruins of an ancient fort