Introduction

For all practical purposes, Kanam (Kanum) is a complete monastic village of Buddhists, though its heart is the Lundup Ganfel gompa, the ‘Temple of easy religious merit’ which is located on the top of the village. The temple may have been rebuilt on the old plinth but the structures adjoining this are of considerable antiquity. This mix of the old and not so old is apparent all over the village; for example the structure that houses the stucco statue of Manjusri Manjughosa is of relatively recent construction, but the image itself is much older.

The monastery is of considerable significance and dates back to time of Rinchensang-po, the ‘Great Translator’. This is located at the base of the Nessang valley – and is on one of the old trade routes that led to Tibet. Kanam is accessed by a side road from Spillo and is sixty kilometers from Kalpa at an altitude of 2699 meters above sea level. The village has seven large and small temples that date back several centuries and numerous reliquaries. The word ‘Kanam’ is believed to come from the first letter, ‘Ka’ of the sacred texts, the Kangyur and ‘nam’, or place – and thus, ‘a place of sacred books’. The Kangyur texts are housed in an ancient double-storied box-like structure that stands in the lower part of the village and the texts – the one hundred volumes of the Kangyur and the two-hundred and twenty-five volumes of the Tangyur are preserved in chests. The village has a building to house nuns (‘jomos’).

As a place, Kanum was one of the earliest places to find a mention in international circles when the Hungarian scholar, Alexander Csoma de Koros lived in severe privation here between 1827 and 1830 while he was researching the history of western Tibet.

Special Attributes

Complete monastic village

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Conservative and comfortable attire is recommended. Since these are remote areas, it is best to avoid shorts and the like. Always factor in local sensibilities.

Connectivity

Taxis and buses

Enjoyed by

People interested in culture and observing local life

Exposure

None indoors, but high outside. Appropriate precautions like headgear and sunscreen lotion are suggested

Avoidable Season

December, January, February

Facilities

Basic, plan accordingly

Things Not Allowed

None as such, but no shoes in the temples.

Tip

Some reading on Vajrayana Buddhism will help you enjoy the place better

Type of site

Village