Introduction

Just off the Nagerkoil-Kanyakumari highway lies an architectural treasure, Padmanabhapuram Palace made entirely of wood. Built in the 16th century, this historical structure has been the hub of the Travancore rulers. Iravi Varma Kulasekhara Perumal was the architect of the palace; he ruled Travancore from 1592 to 1609. It continued to be the stronghold of the Travancore royals till the late 18th century. The abode derives its name from the mythological lore of Padmanabha meaning the lotus that originated from the navel of the Lord.

The complex is spread out over seven acres comprising individual structures connected by a maze of corridors, verandahs, sprawling courtyards and colonnades made of teakwood and granite. Its typical Kerala-style architecture makes it one of the most photographed palaces in South India. Courtesy its massive stone walls of 30 feet (9 meters) that Tipu Sultan could be kept at bay in the 18th century.

In 1744, the construction of the Perumal palace at the centre of the complex was completed and on the day of its completion Maharaja Anizham Thirunal Marthanda Varma christened the palace after Lord Padmanabha. It was then on that the surrounding area earlier known as Kalkulam began to be called Padmanabhapuram. Browse the building and appreciate its murals, lavish courtyards beautified with sculptures, sunny verandahs and plunging eaves. And if you wonder why the palace floors are impeccably polished; remember it is a special mixture of crushed shells, coconut water, egg white and juices of local plants that have gone into its making. The main entrance from the west called the ‘padipura’ is a brilliant example of ornamental gabled roof. Look up the ‘pumukham’ for its exquisitely carved rosewood and mahogany ceiling with 90 species of inverted flowers etched in it, a granite bed in one corner and an richly adorned Chinese throne. At the upper level is an audience hall dotted with wooden columns and angled timber screens to keep it airy and let sunlight stream in.

Further on, explore the private quarters of the palace that has four chambers arranged one above the other and connected by a steep flight of stairs. The one on the ground floor served as a treasury, the second floor is the sleeping chamber, royal meditation chamber is on the third and shrine room on the fourth.

You would need to do a guided tour of the palace complex as it is massive with a maze of 108 rooms, each having its distinct style, mood and artistic expression. Typical Kerala brass oil lamp hanging from ornate teak, painted mahogany musical ceremonial bows adorning the walls and densely carved wooden ceilings further enhance the opulence of the rooms. The sheer size of the two-storied dining hall known locally as ‘oottupura’, where 2000 Brahmins were served lunch everyday, will leave you breathless. Curios at the Padmanabhapuram Palace range from royal chairs with Chinese carvings, Belgian mirrors in the ladies chambers, colorful murals of Lord Krishna, hanging brass oil lamps, hanging cages through which eagles mauled convicts to death, open-air bath area and the two hanging beds in the dressing room of the king’s sister.

Also peruse the collection at the palace archaeological museum housed in the first courtyard from the entrance. It is home to a world of antiques including furniture, coins, granite and rosewood sculptures, stone and copper plate inscriptions, swords, rifles, spears and shields among other ancient armaments. Today the traditional home of the Travancore royal family is maintained by Kerala Archaeological Department.

Special Attributes

A Kerala architectural masterpiece with exquisite murals, granite sculptures and wood carvings.

Nuisance

The site is peaceful, and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Dress in whatever you find comfortable.

Connectivity

Take a Trivandrum bound state bus and get off at Thuckalay. Further on, board an auto-rickshaw for the palace which is just 3 kilometers (1.87 miles) away.

Enjoyed by

Backpackers, history and architecture lovers

Exposure

You will partly be indoors and partly under the sun. At noon, the sun beats down so you are advised to carry your sunshades, sunscreen lotion and a bottle of drinking water.

Avoidable Season

June, July, August, September, October

Facilities

Two guides have been deployed at every location in the palace, and their services are a part of the entrance fee. Besides, every section of the palace has clearly marked directions. This way you can easily make your way through the labyrinth of halls and rooms.

Things Not Allowed

You are not allowed to wear your footwear inside the palace chambers.

Tip

Maintain decorum. Do not touch objects on display and help preserve the serenity of the place.

Type of site

Palace complex/Architectural/Historical monument