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Remarkably well preserved to the extent of giving the clichéd phrase ‘old world charm’ expression, the small town of Kasauli lies curled along the heights of the first major row of hills on a side road off the main highway that connects Kalka to the state capital of Himachal Pradesh, Shimla. Kasauli itself seems to live in a delightful time warp that belongs to a century now gone. Its narrow roads wander up and down the hillside and offer some of the finest views of the area. At the foot of the hills pours the spread of the vast Gangetic plains and unfolds a carpet of bright lights that shine like little sequins through the night. Across the tumbling hills lies Shimla - whose lights are also visible from Kasauli. Standing majestically above all the lower hills is the peak of Choor Chandni ( Choor Dhar ).

The town’s ambience which is at least, partially, plucked out of rural England, is reinforced by gabled houses with charming facades and chimneys and neat little gardens with beds of geraniums and hydrangea held high by stone revetments. The picture is completed by slim paths that slide past orchards of plum and apricot. A substantial measure of Kasauli’s civic care can be attributed to the Cantonment Board that controls most of Kasauli and to the pride and concern of its citizens who have an active ‘preserve Kasauli society’. As a holiday destination, it is the serenity and ‘colonial way of life’ that are Kasauli’s greatest attractions.

History

The origins of Kasauli go back to the close of the ‘Gurkha Wars’ in 1815. By the treaty of Sagauli signed the following year, the victorious British retained certain spots as military outposts and as sanitaria. Subathu, which is close to Kasauli, but at a considerably lower level, was one such place. In 1840, the soon to be famous Henry Lawrence who along with his brother John, played a major role in the Great Uprising of 1857, was at Subathu. This settlement lay in the ‘malarial belt’ and the disease claimed the life of their daughter, Letetia. After this tragedy, Lawrence’s wife, Honoria, could not bear to live in the place any longer. By that time the Kasauli hill had also been surveyed and they decided to shift to its healthier climate. The Lawrences built ‘Sunnyside’, the first European residence on the hill and Lawrence’s wife Honoria wrote in a letter, “From our house we can see the burial ground at Subathoo where the mortal remains of our little angel lie. It is on a solitary hill above Subathoo, ten miles from Kussowlie.” Henry Lawrence died in the siege of the Residency at Lucknow in 1857 and down the years, ‘Sunnyside’ in Kasauli changed hands several times but still stands. A short step away from Kasauli Lawrence’s legacy still remains – the school founded by him and originally intended for the orphaned children of European soldiers.

In a row by the first house, some three dozen houses were built by other European settlers. In 1842, lands were formally acquired to build a cantonment and steadily, the place expanded to become a little town. At various points, British, Gurkha, Sikh and Dogra regiments have been based at Kasauli. The cemetery at the start of town, holds the graves of many of these soldiers – several of whom came up the hill to try and recover from the numerous battles that were taking place across north India in the nineteenth century. Many graves date back to years of the Anglo-Sikh wars in the 1840s.

Before the large bungalows and cottages arrived, an oral tradition maintains, the hill had been settled by members of the Rajput community. Persecuted by the Mughals, they had fled to the hills in the seventeenth century from Rewari in the present day state of Haryana. The town takes its name from the original village of Kasul which has since merged with the town.

Getting Around

Kasauli is not large. From one end of the town to the other - past the Lower Mall and then up the Upper one - you can walk in a couple of easy hours. This is also the best way of enjoying what Kasauli has to offer. Taxis and buses are available for longer trips.

Tourist Traps in the City

Surprisingly, almost none. Large vehicles like tourist buses are not permitted on the Upper Mall. Cars are the only nuisance along the narrow lanes.

Local Custom

None as such

Shopping

Locally made jams, pickles and preserves are available. Shawls, woolens and some handicrafts are sold in the shops above the bus stand.

Communications

The prominent GSM service providers include BSNL, Airtel, Vodafone, and Idea among others.

There are a couple of internet cafes and as elsewhere in Himachal, BSNL is the main service provider and provides broadband connectivity. You can browse the net, send e mails and upload photographs. The cyber cafes may ask for an identification document eg. passport, driving licence etc.

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