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That Khajuraho is still a remote place in Central India is borne out by the fact that the closest major railhead is 175 kilometers (109 miles) away. So it isn't surprising that these temples lay hidden in dense forests for centuries, till a British military adventurer decided to pay heed to a suggestion made by a local of taking a detour to see them. That was 1838. The rest, as they say, is history. For many Khajuraho’s erotic temples are as iconic a representation of India as the Taj. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, these temples represent the apogee of two art forms – sculpture and architecture. In a relatively short span of 100 years, from 950 CE - 1050 CE, these temples were completed in an inspired burst of creativity.
History
In the 27th century of Kali yuga when the Mlechcha (non-Aryan, barbarian) invaders started attacking North India, some Bargujar Rajputs moved towards east to Central India. They ruled over north-eastern region of Rajasthan called Dhundharand and were referred to as Dhundhel/Dhundhela in ancient times, for the region they governed. Later on they called themselves Bundelas and Chandelas those who were in the ruling class having gotra Kashyap were definitely all Bargujars. They were vassals of Gurjara-Pratihara Empire of North India which lasted from 500 CE to 1300 CE and was at its peak when major monuments were built. The Bargujars also built the Kalinjar fort and Neelkanth Mahadev temple similar to one at Sariska National Park and Baroli, being Shiva worshipers. The city was the cultural capital of Chandela Rajputs, a Hindu dynasty that ruled this part of India from the 10th to the 12th centuries. Political capital of Chandelas was Kalinjar. The Khajuraho temples were built over a span of 200 years, from 950 to 1150. The Chandela capital was moved to Mahoba after this time, but Khajuraho continued to flourish for some time. Khajuraho has no forts because the Chandela kings never lived in their cultural capital.
The whole area was enclosed by a wall with eight gates, each flanked by two golden palm trees. There were originally over 80 Hindu temples, of which only 20 odd now stand in a reasonable state of preservation, scattered over an area of about 8 square miles (21 sq. km).
The temples of Khajuraho suffered destruction by early Muslim invaders between 1100-1400 CE as various disfigured statues at the temple complex attest. Today, the temples serve as fine examples of Indian architectural styles that have gained popularity due to their explicit depiction of the traditional way of sexual life during medieval times. Locals living in the Khajuraho village always knew about them and kept up the temples as best as they could. They were pointed out to an English man in late 19th century and the jungles had taken a toll on all of the monuments.
Courtesy – Wikipedia
Getting Around
Khajuraho is essentially a tiny cluster of villages centered around the three temple complexes. All within a radius of 3 kilometers (1.8 miles) from the main street. Hence there are no mass transport options here. For those who like to explore places on their own, walking and cycling are good options. The latter available at most budget accommodations and restaurants for about Rs 20 per day. Cycle-rickshaws and auto-rickshaws can also be hired on an hourly, half-day and full-day basis. A full day temple spotting tour would cost you around Rs 300 in an auto-rickshaw. Cycle- rickshaws normally charge about Rs 10 an hour. Rental cars are available at the main square. Your hotel should also be able to arrange them.
Tourist Traps in the City
It is a small place devoid of the regular traps that one faces in big Indian cities. However, be aware of taxi drivers who'll offer to take you from the airport to the hotel, tacitly expecting you to use their services for the entire duration of your stay. They often hang around the hotel. Make it clear at the outset that it is a one-time arrangement only till the hotel.
Local Custom
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Shopping
Khajuraho's best known buys are small iron, brass and stone sculptures depicting Kama Sutra poses. Although available all over town, Crafts Emporium on Jain Temple Road is highly recommended. Another good place is appropriately called the 'Artist'. Run by the children of a national award winning master craftsman; look out for miniature paintings on silk, fabric, or paper inspired by temple motifs. One can also contact them for commissioned work.
Kandaryia Shilpgram is a well known crafts shop that hosts craftspeople from all over India. At these camps artisans live and create for a few months before going back home. One can watch them at work as you shop. One can also interact with them.
Tijori is an up-market option at Ramada Khajuraho on airport road. Aside from local attractions such as sculptures and silk and paper paintings, one can also find an array of antique silver and gold jewelry, diamonds from a local mine, silver boxes and vases, enameled silver elephants, sandalwood carvings, small and very large brass statues among others.
Communications
Phones: Cell phone rates are one of the cheapest in the world.
There are four GSM service providers:
*BSNL [20] GSM Triband
*Airtel [21] GSM Triband
*Vodafone [22] GSM Triband
*Idea [23]GSM Triband
CDMA service providers are:
*Reliance Communications [24]
*Tata Indicom[25]
Internet: There are several internet cafes/Cyber Cafes from where you can access the Internet for sending email or uploading your digital photos.
*Reliance world offers you broadband connectivity at many locations across the city.
*Sify iway also offers broadband connectivity at different locations spread all over the city.
*Most markets also have small Internet cafes, which can be very helpful for quick email or printer access.
Other Attractions
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Benisagar Dam
If you've had your fill of temples, art and architecture, Beni Sagar Dam is a good getaway. Barely 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) from Khajuraho, it is built across River Khudar. The dam spreads across 7.7 square kilometers, and provides tranquil views of water flowing through the lush green Central India landscape. It is safe for swimming and angling. ... more>>
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Mahashivratri
If you are the type who wants to experience the local way of life, time your visit to coincide with Mahashivratri in Khajuraho in February-March every year. Thousands of people from villages around converge here as pilgrims to celebrate the marriage of Shiva and Parvati. That night the celestial wedding is re-enacted by the locals who infuse meaning and soul to this UNESCO World Heritage Site. And the erotic sculptures form a metaphor of the union of Shiva and Parvati. ... more>>
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Dance Festival
Every year from 25th February to 2nd March the cultural capital of the Chandela Kings becomes the hub of one of the country's most prestigious dance festivals. Culture and art connoisseurs from across the globe descend on to this tiny cluster of villages that make up Khajuraho. Held in the Western Group of Temples, the festival draws the best classical dancers from across the country who perform against the beautiful backdrop of the floodlit temples. This synthesis of the past and the present ge ... more>>
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Panna National Park
This Tiger Reserve is barely 27 kilometers (17 miles) from Khajuraho. Extending over 543 kilometers (338 miles), it spreads along the banks of River Ken. Deep gorges, a tranquil valley and dense teak forests make up its picturesque setting. During the monsoons, the park is a lush green haven with cascading waterfalls. The park's area includes the former shooting reserves of the erstwhile royal state of Panna and Chhattarpur and the jungles today are home to a variety of flora and fauna. The tige ... more>>
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Eastern Group of Temples
In the pecking order, the Eastern Group follows the Western Group in order of importance. Temples in the Eastern Group can be further divided into two clusters. Temples in the old village being one cluster, and the Jain temples being the other.
One of the first temples one encounters here has a two-meter-high image of Hanuman. A little beyond is the Brahma temple that strangely has a chaturmukha (four-faced) lingam. The eastern and western sides have gentle expressions, while the north ... more>> -
Southern Group of Temples
Comprising three temples that stand fairly apart from one another, the Southern Group of temples do not have the sculptural exuberance of the other groups. The most prominent of these is the Duladeva temple with Shiva as the presiding deity. Built in the twelfth century, it bears testimony to the decline of temple architecture in the late Chandela period. Even so the main hall contains some exquisite carving.
The tall Chaturbhuj temple's shikhara is visible from a distance above the s ... more>> -
Jain Museum
A modern circular gallery, it houses more than hundred Jain sculptures of the 24 tirthankars, along with sculptures of yakshis and other figures of Jains. Inaugurated in the year 1987, it is located within the Jain Temple Complex in the Eastern Group of Temples. The circular building is also known as Sahu Shantiprasad Jain Kala Sangrahalaya. ... more>>
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Ajaigarh Fort
Located nearly 80 kilometers (50 miles) from Khajuraho, the Ajaigarh Fort is another example of the architectural and sculptural accomplishments of the Chandela dynasty. Historians believe this impressive fortress was built by them towards the latter part of their reign. That makes this a later development than Kalinjar Fort. It was the capital of the Chandelas during their decline. Chhatrasal, a popular king of the region, gave it to his son Shri Jagat Raj in 1731. ... more>>
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State Museum of Tribal and Folk Art
Get a taste of Madhya Pradesh's vibrant tribal culture through the museum's collection of metal craft, woodcraft, tribal and folk paintings, tattoos, jewelry, terracotta sculptures, masks, statues and bamboo flutes. Many of these are masterpieces. Forms, styles and designs that have evolved over centuries. ... more>>
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Kalinjar Fort
Located 105 kilometers (65 miles) from Khajuraho in Uttar Pradesh, it is one of the most imposing forts in India. A tad smaller than India's largest fort at Gwalior, Kalinjar stands on an 800-feet (244 meter) high hill. The height combined with size gives it an aura or invincibility. It makes for an awe-inspiring view.
Although the exact date on of its construction is shrouded in mystery, historians believe that this fort was built by the Chandela king Kedar Burman in the 9th century CE ... more>> -
Archaeological Museum
In 1910, Mr. W.A. Jardine who was the local officer-in-charge of the British government in Bundelkhand realized that the loose sculptures and architectural features of the ruined temples were lying strewn across the countryside of Khajuraho. Under his initiative they were collected and preserved in an enclosure built adjoining Matangeshwar Temple of Western Group of Temples. The open-air collection continued to be known as Jardine Museum until the Archaeological Survey of India took it over in 1 ... more>>
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Western Group of Temples
The Chandela Kings constructed 85 temples during their reign. Intricately carved, they depict scenes of every day life such as people performing household chores, hunting in forests, battle scenes, people pursing art, and most famously, the scenes of love making. Since its rediscovery in 1838, Khajuraho's temples have been voted as one of the 1000 artworks to see before you die by London's prestigious Guardian newspaper. And the Western Group of Temples marks the highpoint of the 'Khajuraho Expe ... more>>
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Light And Sound Show
Every evening an excellent 'Light and Sound' show in the grounds of the Western Group of Temples recreates the story of the Chandela Kings who built Khajuraho's temples. Set to the background tune of Indian classical music, the narration is in the voice of legendary Indian movie star Amitabh Bachchan who represents a 'master sculptor'. His voice quality, intonation and accurate punctuations add an extra dimension to the show. ... more>>
Indian
Osho on Jain Temple Road, Agarwal in Gole Market, Rahil, Payal, Jhankar, Blue Sky Restaurant, Siddhart, Raja Cafe, Agrasen, Ganesh.
European/Continental
Radisson Jass, Sura Sundari at Taj Chandela, Rimjhim at Taj Chandela, Café De La Paix at Taj Chandela, La Dolce Vita, Paradise, Raja Cafe near the main square, Mediterraneo, Bella Italia on Jain Temple Road, Ramada on Airport Road, La Terraza near the main square, Safari on Jain Temple Road
Regional Speciality
Rasna at Taj Chandela, Apsara
Khajuraho Today
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With an average elevation of 283 meters (928 feet), Khajuraho is located in the lush plains of the Khudar river with the Vindhya ranges as a backdrop.
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Surface
Khajuraho is connected by regular and direct bus services with Chhatarpur, Mahoba, Harpalpur, Satna, Panna, Jhansi, Gwalior, Agra, Sagar, Jabalpur, Indore, Bhopal, Varanasi and Allahabad. The local bus stand is about half a kilometer from the main sqaure/chowk in town. Most budget hotels are within walking distance.
Train
The nearest major railhead is at Jhansi, some 175 kilometers (109 miles) away towards the north. Satna, to the south, is the other option. The former is well connected to most important cities including Delhi, Gwalior, Varanasi, and Mumbai. It is the preferred railhead for people visiting Khajuraho from north. The super-fast Shatabdi Express via Gwalior and Agra is the best option to reach Jhansi from Delhi. Satna, on the Mumbai-Allahabad section of the Central Railway is well-connected to Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai. Connecting buses are readily available from both Jhansi and Satna.
Khajuraho is 600 kilometers (372 miles) SE of Delhi; 415 kilometers (257 miles) SW of Varanasi; and 395 kilometers (245 miles) SE of Agra.
Air
In terms of logistics, the best way to travel to Khajuraho is by air. Air India flies from Delhi via Agra, or Varanasi and Jet Airways also has a daily flight from Delhi via Varanasi. Being high priority on the international tourist's itinerary, Khajuraho despite its tiny size is well serviced. Khajuraho airport is 5 kilometers (3 miles) from the heart of town. Taxi charges hover around the Rs 100 mark.
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