Introduction

The Chandela Kings constructed 85 temples during their reign. Intricately carved, they depict scenes of every day life such as people performing household chores, hunting in forests, battle scenes, people pursing art, and most famously, the scenes of love making. Since its rediscovery in 1838, Khajuraho's temples have been voted as one of the 1000 artworks to see before you die by London's prestigious Guardian newspaper. And the Western Group of Temples marks the highpoint of the 'Khajuraho Experience'.

This is invariably the starting point for most visitors. The largest of the three groups of temples in Khajuraho, it houses 12 of the 22 surviving temples. Start your tour by hiring an audio headset from the ticket counter. Set amidst a profusion of pink blossoming bougainvillea and neatly manicured lawns, all the temples follow a similar style of orientation. Each stands on a raised platform, above which rises the main structure. It is capped by a soaring shikhar (spire) that symbolizes a metaphoric 'stairways to heaven'. Temples in this complex are large and lavishly decorated. Most of them either have Vishnu or Shiva as their main deity.

Kandariya Mahadev Temple is the largest and architecturally, the most impressive. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it houses no less than 872 statues. Built in 1030 CE to celebrate King Vidyadhara's victory over Mahmud of Ghazni, it is a tantric Shaivite temple. Standing on the same platform as Kandariya Mahadeva, is the Devi Jagadamba Temple.

Lakshmana Temple is the other outstanding temple in the Western Group. Vishnu, in his Vaikuntham avataar, presides over this temple. The 4 feet tall statute has three faces – lion, man and boar. With four subsidiary temples on its platform, it was built in 954 CE. It is associated with tantric Vaishnavism.

One of the striking features of these temples is its erotic sculptures. The reasons behind their existence have been open to debate. One long standing theory suggests that they served to educate young men who as boys lived in hermitages. When these 'brahmacharis' were ready for manhood, a study of these sculptures was recommended by way of sex education.

Art lovers transcend the obvious to see high relief that renders a virtual three-dimensional quality to the sculptures on the walls. The pink sandstone imbue the figures with soft flesh-like tones. And the incredible skill of the artisans is hard to miss. Detailing has been done to such minute levels that even on friezes as tiny as 10 cm wide ornaments, jewelry, hairstyles and even manicured nails can be noticed.

To add to the beauty of the whole temple ensemble, the exterior building material changes hue as the day progresses. From a warm pink at sunrise, to white through the day, and back to warm pink at sunset. And as the floodlights take effect in the evening, another tonal dimension is added.

The Western Group also houses the only sun temple in Khajuraho - the Chandragupta Temple. Parvati Temple and Vishwanatha Temple are the other impressive temples in this cluster. Just outside the Western Group enclosure are Matangeshwara Temple and Chausat Yogini Temple.

The sound-and-light show in the evening also takes place in this complex.

Special Attributes

The largest group among the three that make up Khajuraho's temple attractions

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Avoid wearing anything too revealing

Connectivity

Cycle and auto rickshaws are easily available

Enjoyed by

People into religion as also culture, art and architecture buffs

Exposure

Carry your sunglasses and a bottle of drinking water

Avoidable Season

April, May, June, July

Facilities

Apart from beautifully manicured lawns between temples there's not much else available here.

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction.

Tip

Take your time to study the detail in sculptures. Give yourself ample time.

Type of site

Group of Temples