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Contents

 

  1. History
  2. Getting Around
  3. Tourist Traps
  4. Local Customs
  5. Shopping
  6. Communications

Kochi’s appeal spans history, geography and commerce in equal measure. A heady concoction that has drawn travelers of all ilk! It is Kerala’s genuine melting pot. Travelers with a yen for history and heritage will find Fort Kochi and Mattancherry engrossing. The city’s physical geography encompassing islands, lakes, lagoons, canals, estuaries, the sea and the mainland, makes for a seamless fusion between land and water. And its strategic and natural harbor has attracted seafaring visitors from Admiral Zheng He and Vasco Da Gama to other European maritime powers of the time. A major trading post in the legendary ‘Spice Route’, Kochi today, is the commercial capital of the state. For many, it is a microcosm of diversity that is Kerala.

History

History stares you in the face at Kochi. Tangible signs of the city’s past can be seen everywhere in the form of heritage structures, community settlements and town planning, especially in the Fort Kochi area. But to come to grips with Kochi’s past one should start from a nearby place called Kodungallur, barely 40 odd kilometers north of present-day Kochi. The region was known to the Greeks and Romans even two millennia back. St. Thomas, one of the Twelve Apostles, is believed to have arrived at Kodungallur port in 52 CE. An important port on the ‘Spice Route’, it was a thriving trading post for Mediterranean and Arab traders on the one hand and Chinese and South East Asian traders on the other. The port however came unstuck due to colossal flood on River Periyar in 1341 CE. This cataclysmic natural disaster though had a silver lining. It threw open the estuary at Kochi creating many waterways in the process, inadvertently creating ideal conditions for a fine natural harbor.

Some of the early references to Kochi can be found in the writings Chinese voyager Ma Huan. He came to Kochi in the 15th century as part of Admiral Zheng He’s fleet. Kochi also finds a mention in Italian traveler Niccolò Da Conti’s notes in 1440 CE. In the subsequent 60 years the Portuguese made their first attempts to find a footing in India. The Portuguese had been pushed back by the Zamorin king of Calicut (Kozhikode) in 1498. The King of Kochi, a rival of the Zamorin, was more forthcoming and welcomed his European guests and a treaty of friendship was signed. It became the first European settlement in India in 1500. Admiral Pedro Álvares Cabral soon convinced the local king to allow the construction of a factory at Kochi. And in due course a fort came up on the pretext of security. Under the guise of help, Kochi was virtually ruled by the Portuguese from 1503 to 1663. This Portuguese period was particularly tough on local Jews as the Inquisition was on in Portugal and had its bearing on settlements in Kochi.

By 1663, the Dutch had found their way to Quilon. Soon they were at the doorsteps of Portuguese Kochi. The new power (Protestants) went about dismantling most Portuguese (Catholic) landmarks. The only structure that escaped their wrath was the Santa Cruz Basilica. Many others such as the Mattancherry Palace were originally built by the Portuguese, but the Dutch rechristened it as the ‘Dutch Palace’ after some renovation. Among the original Dutch constructions in Kochi is the Bolgatty Palace. Built in 1744, it is now a heritage hotel and is one of the oldest Dutch palaces outside of Netherlands in the world.

1814 saw the signing of the Anglo-Dutch Treaty. Kochi was ceded to the United Kingdom in exchange of Banca Island in Indonesia. With the British moving in, the port was given a facelift under Lord Willingdon’s leadership, then the Governor of Madras. Post Independence, Kochi became part of Travancore-Cochin state. It was later merged with the Madras State. The States Reorganization Act of November 1, 1956 redrew state boundaries on linguistic lines. Kochi finally became part of the newly formed state of Kerala.

Getting Around

One of the most charming ways of moving around Kochi is by ferry. The interconnected backwaters of the region make ferry rides a delight. Besides giving a peek into the local way of life, it is a good way of hopping on to a neighboring island. All the important islands such as Fort Kochi, Wellingdon, Bolghatty et al. have jetties. Ernakulam, the mainland, has two jetties – main jetty and high court jetty. Often taking a ferry ride from Ernakulam to Mattancherry, Fort Kochi, Vypeen and Willingdon Island works out cheaper than buses. Bus, auto rickshaw or taxi conveyance may entail longer rides through crowded routes. Having said that, Kochi has an efficient local bus service system as well! The red town buses are easily identifiable and connect most important points in and around town such as Fort Kochi, Mattancherry, Willingdon Island, Thevara, Kaloor, Palarivattom, Kakkanad, Kalamassery, Edapalli, North Paravur, Aluva, Tripunithura, Thoppumpady, Edakochi, and Vytilla Junction among others.

Auto rickshaws and taxis are the other transport options in Kochi. In case of auto rickshaws, very often, the meter reading machines don’t work. In such a case settle the fare before boarding. Pre-paid auto rickshaws are available from the railway station. They are a good bet for those coming into town by rail. Taxis in Kochi are very convenient and comfortable. As a thumb rule the rates are almost double that of auto rickshaws. Mostly unmetered, average half day charges are to the tune of Rs 400 for 4 hours and 40 kilometers. It is better to book taxis in advance, as the possibility of flagging one down on a road is fairly low.

Tourist Traps in the City

As in many Indian cities auto rickshaw drivers can be a little annoying at times. They might lead you to shops that give them a commission. Post card sellers and sundry hawkers too can be a little irritating at places like Princess Street in Fort Kochi, but by and large it is a tourist friendly city.

Local Custom

One of the unique features of Kochi ( and Kerala as a whole) is that Onam is celebrated by people of all religions. It is a great time to experience local culture. One custom that stands out is the design patterns done on the ground - entrance and courtyards - in honors of Mahabali, Kerala's beloved mythical king.

Shopping

One of the must dos in Kochi is to shop for spices in the city’s famous Spice Market. Located in Ernakulam, once you reach in the vicinity the strong smell wafting from shops will automatically lead you there. Big strips of cinnamon, black pepper seeds, big red chillis, saffron and cardamom are some of the things to look out for. Also check out a local exotica called kodampoli. It acts as a souring agent in local cuisine. One can substitute it for vinegar or tamarind. Even if you aren’t a shopping enthusiast, we recommend you step out to soak in the market’s atmosphere.

If you are an antique lover, head for Jew Town in Fort Kochi. Kochi’s Jews are one of the oldest communities in the city, and the local market there has many interesting things, albeit a bit expensive. M.G. Road in Ernakulam is Kochi’s shopping hub. An important raw material in the production of local handicrafts is coir. From attractively designed floor spreads and mattresses to coasters the variety is immense. Wood, sea shell, brass, ivory and sandalwood items are also worth a look in Kochi.

Communications

Phones: The prominent GSM service providers include BSNL, Airtel, Vodafone, and Idea among others. CDMA service providers are Reliance Communications and Tata Indicom.

Internet: There are ample cyber cafes across the city from where you can browse the net, send emails and upload your travel photographs.

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