Introduction

Located 130 kilometers (81 miles) west of Leh, Lamayuru enjoys an important position in the pecking order of monasteries in Ladakh. While most important monasteries in Ladakh are part of the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat order), Lamayuru belongs to the Drikung Kagyu sub-sect of the Kagyu (Red Hat) order of Tibetan Buddhism.

Lamayuru significance stems from the fact that it is the oldest surviving monastery of Ladakh. It was founded by Naropa, a Buddhist scholar from Nalanda University who came looking for his guru Tilopa, a master of Tantra. After a twelve year stint with his guru, Naropa established this monastery in the 11th century. He scripted the famous treatise, The Six Yogas of Naropa. Among Naropa’s followers was Marpa, who is regarded as one of the founders of the Kagyu order.

One of the legends associated with Lamayuru goes that when Naropa first came to Lamayuru there was a lake here. He spent many years meditating in a cave nearby, which can still be seen in the monastery. The power of Naropa's meditation caused a split in the mountains around and the water of lake went into the opening. Naropa then found a dead lion on the lake bed. It is at this spot that Naropa built the first temple, the Singhe Ghang or the Lion Mound.

On your visit to Lamayuru do not miss Naropa’s cave. Request one of the monks around to show its exact location. The entrance to the cave is beyond bounds but can be seen from behind the glass wall. Many click pictures on tripods to capture the low light conditions, while others flash a torch to catch sight of Naropa’s meditation point! One can spot the statues of Naropa, Marpa and Milarepa in the cave.

After Naropa, the monastery got its next infusion of life from Rinchen Zangpo. A Tibetan, he came to India to study Buddhism and went on to become a great translator of Sanskrit Buddhist texts into Tibetan. Along with taking Lamayuru to a high, he went on build many significant monasteries in present day Ladakh, Spiti and Kinnaur. He expanded and embellished the monastery.

Every July the monastery draws many visitors for the Yuru Kabgyat. This two day festival is one of the biggest events in the cultural calendar of Ladakh. Masked dancers enact the fundamental teachings of Tibetan Buddhism (Vajrayana) through traditional dance dramas. One of the most significant acts being the destruction of an effigy signifying the enemy of every individual—the ego! People from the villages add an ethnic touch by turning up in traditional garments making the festival just that bit more colorful.

Special Attributes

Oldest surviving monastery of Ladakh

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Dress modestly

Connectivity

Motorcycles and vehicles hired from Leh are a good option. Regular bus service is readily available.

Enjoyed by

People interested in culture and Buddhism

Exposure

Most of it is indoors, but do keep your sunglasses handy

Avoidable Season

November, December, January, February

Facilities

Basic accommodation

Things Not Allowed

Shoes

Tip

Attend the Yuru Kabgyat festival if visiting around July

Type of site

Monastery