Introduction

Khardung La or Khardung Pass – a much romanticized high altitude adventure trail – happens to be the gateway to Nubra and Shyok Valleys. Standing proud at an altitude of 5359 meters (17,582 feet), contrary to the signage and the local voice claiming it to be 5602 meters (18,380 feet) high, Khardung Pass is the road that’s sporadically trod by adventure-streaked bikers and military personnel trucking supplies on to Siachen Glacier alike. About 37 kilometers (23 miles) north of Leh, this pass was built in 1976 and has been operational from 1988 onwards, serving as a vital link to not only Nubra Valley and the Siachen Glacier, but places like Sumur, Hunder and Diskit, which attract a lot of tourists for a unique spiritual journey. This pass holds historical importance as well, lying on the caravan route that was once traversed regularly by pack animals (horses and Bactrian camels) used by tradesmen who traveled from Leh to Kashgar in Chinese Central Asia and vice-versa.

Known by locals as Khardong La and even Khardzong La, it has a strange and mesmerizing effect on people who visit it, and even those who wish to go there. So much so that sometimes tourists hang around patiently for days, waiting for the accursed road-blocking snow to shy away and leave the stage for some breathtaking tripping. And breathtaking it undoubtedly is, as the remarkable drop in temperature here (about 7,000 feet higher than Leh) can freeze even your heart, besides chilling your bones. But that’s what makes the ride/drive even more thrilling and maybe even cosmic, as a signpost welcoming you with a “You are nearest to Heaven and can have a dialogue with God” message promises to prod up the tempo further. This sign, along with many other signs (including one offering suggestions for visitors) that you will come across on the way, will bucket up tempestuous juices of expectations from within you, which incidentally will be met quite comfortably once you reach Khardung La Top.

To cross the pass or even visit it you need to have an Inner Line Permit, which can be procured in the town of Leh – its approval or denial depending purely on the running weather conditions. If it’s raining and heavy snow hinders your drive, chances of you being granted with the permit are very bleak. Get about six photocopies of the permit done as you will have to deposit the copies at various check posts (South Pullu and North Pullu) for security formalities. You will also come across a fantastic rock formation dubbed “India Gate,” which will dramatically stress on the fact that nature takes its own course when left alone – and how. The rugged path, the icy expanse, the blanket of snow-capped mountains, the unusual quiet disturbed occasionally by the temple bells and the humming vehicle engines, the fluttering prayer flags on temple rooftops; all course down to one simple human emotion – bliss characterized by eyes that widen and close almost uncontrollably.

Special Attributes

A high altitude pass that's popularly romanticized as the highest motorable road in the world with a landscape of endless snow covered mountains.

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

None. Wrap up in warm clothes as temperature can go down drastically during evenings.

Connectivity

Shared Taxis, Jeeps

Enjoyed by

Singles, Backpackers, Nature Lovers

Exposure

You will be outdoors completely. Wrap up in warm clothes to be comfortable in the extreme high-terrain cold. Wear shades and a hat to shun the sporadic bursts of sunlight.

Avoidable Season

October, November, December, January, February, March, April

Facilities

Basic. Plan accordingly

Things Not Allowed

No such restrictions

Tip

Check on weather updates and embark on a clear day. Leave early as the uphill traffic can be real slow and even be held up at check posts.

Type of site

Mountain Pass