Introduction

A sharp climb from McLeodganj past small cafes and shops and then through cedar woods leads to this old temple that locals claim has been in existence since the time of the Mahabharata, and the exile of the Pandava brothers. The temple, even if its exact age is open to speculation, is certainly a fairly old one and is dedicated to Shiva and to the local version of the serpent deity, Bhagsu Nag. Another version of local lore has it that a king named Bhagsu had a fight with a powerful serpent and was defeated. After a conciliation, the king had the temple built. Bhagsu village, till its recent transformation as a tiny village packed with different nationalities - especially young Israelis - was a tiny hillside hamlet that was home only to the migrant Gaddi people. The sheep and goat rearing transhumant Gaddis are considered to be the original inhabitants of the Dhauladhar range and small villages like this, was where they put down roots for brief moments. The temple, in its present form itself owes much to the Gurkhas who had captured Kangra in the early nineteenth century and this was rebuilt by them; the Gurkhas, after their integration in the Indian army had a large presence in the area and continued to revere this temple. The stone tiger-mouth water-spouts are typical of Nepalese carvings. A mile or so from Bhagsu village, are the Bhasu falls. The waterfall is about twenty metres high. A small pool, the little stream and along the way, quarries that produce fine slate and numerous small eating places make this an enjoyable day hike. The area around the falls is full of grassy slopes and clumps of woodland. As in other parts of the Kangra region – especially the heights – the area is frequented by the transhumant Gaddi people and their flocks of sheep and goats.

Special Attributes

Bhagsunag is an attractive old temple amidst picturesque surroundings with several small interesting food places around. The Falls, the only one in the area, are again in attractive surroundings.

Nuisance

None barring, oddly, the occasional aggressive tourist.

Dressing restrictions

Basic, plan accordingly

Connectivity

Taxis or autos and then walking

Enjoyed by

Nature buffs and general interest

Exposure

Subject to heavy rain during the monsoons and snow in winter. High UV.

Avoidable Season

Mid winter

Facilities

Small cafes

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction

Tip

Walk there, it is more enjoyable. Take a dip in the pool at the temple.

Type of site

Religion and nature