Introduction

The small village of Kumarsain lies along a side-road that branches off from the Hindustan Tibet Road between Narkanda and the valley floor of the river Satluj, en route to Rampur. Kumarsain was a small princely state with the same name. As a princely state, it was a feudatory of Bushair, immediately preceding the Gurkha Wars of the early nineteenth century. At the end of the Wars, its Rana, ruler was given independent charge by a ‘Sanad’ issued by the British in 1816. The founder of the state is regarded to be Kirat Singh who came from Gaya in c.1000. The old palace, that burnt down recently was an eclectic mélange of architectural styles – there were domes as well as lines that resembled a Chinese pagoda; sections had finely worked stone and remarkable lattice-work. While this may be gone, the tiny Ram-Sita temple in the little bazaar is worth a visit.

Below the village, and quite clearly visible from its height, is the ‘Kot’ or Thakurdwara of Koteshwara Mahadev, a local manifestation of Lord Shiva. The Thakurdwara is regarded to have also served as the residence of the Rana till the ‘palace’ was built in the village. This structure is a combination of timber and stone, while some parts are built of rammed earth. The walls have been whitewashed over and are offset by brightly colored decorative devices; the adornments include the horns of various species of deer. The roof is of grey slabs of quartzite. At some distance below the Thakurdwara, is a smaller temple, also dedicated to the same deity, Koteshwara Mahadeva. The smaller one has a remarkable roof-line with a conical dome. Executed in locally available Himalayan cedar wood, deodar, its woodwork is also interestingly done and the carved brackets are especially noteworthy. Like other temples in the area, this too has delicate wooden tassels that hang from the eavesboards.

Special Attributes

Small village with interesting architecture

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Conservative but comfortable

Connectivity

Taxis and buses

Enjoyed by

Walkers, history, architecture, nature lovers and general interest

Exposure

Some level of UV and rain in the monsoons and in winter

Avoidable Season

None

Facilities

Basic restaurants

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction.

Tip

For the temples of Koteswara Mahadeva, inquire if the road is open for vehicles.

Type of site

Small village