Introduction

Many would say the key to unlocking the soul of Delhi is to decode its seven historic cities. ‘Shahjahanabad’ or the city of Shahjahan holds special significance in this regard. Popularly referred to as ‘Old Delhi’, it draws tourists in large numbers who come to see life in the ‘walled city’. Teeming bazaars often set in narrow lanes, mosques, temples and a way of live that seems to exist in a time warp, are its drawcards.

There are various ways of experiencing ‘Old Delhi’. ‘Heritage Walks’ have long been popular in this part of Delhi. And with good reason! Conducted by architecture and history experts, they help visitors to tie up the various strands of influence for the all important larger picture to emerge. But these walks cover small areas given that they are done by foot.

Adding a new dimension to the ‘Old Delhi’ circuit is a cycling tour. The brainchild of a Dutchman (on the lines of popular cycling tours in European cities such as Amsterdam, Paris, London), this tour exposes you to life in the walled city in a short 3 hour burst covering around 11 kilometers. Negotiating the labyrinth with dexterity you chance upon hidden delights on this tour. Watching Fatehpuri Masjid from the terrace of Gadodia Market building right behind it is one such moment. Observing the morning routine of daily wage earners at Khari Baoli, children in rickshaws on their way to school yelling ‘hi’, street cleaners going about their job in the midst of hectic morning activity, jalebi making at the local halwai…the scenes keep unfolding rapidly and the entire experience is akin to watching live snapshots.

The underground parking opposite Delite cinema (near Turkman Gate) is the meeting point of this tour. Atlas all terrain bicycles are provided by the tour operators. Riding through the Lal Kuan area, the first stop is at a madarsa (a religious school for Muslims). You get an idea about the atmosphere of such schools. Next up is Khari Baoli. Delhi’s wholesale market for spices will greet you with the smell of red chillies, ginger, garlic, turmeric all at once. This is where retailers come shopping for nuts (almond, cashew, coconut, peanuts, walnuts, betel nuts), dry fruits (raisins, dates, figs), pickles besides ground spice powder and raw spices. Trudge up to the roof of a huge, old building constructed in the traditional Indian architectural style with a courtyard. Gadodia Market is a landmark building in the area. People sorting spices, workers preparing meals for the day ahead, others lying down on charpoys, offer a mosaic of life in this trading hub. The roof top is a revelation. The perspective alters. Look into the serene courtyard of Fatehpuri Masjid, and at the far end of the road stands Red Fort. The domes of Jama Masjid are also visible above the wall-to-wall houses of the region. Built by one of Shah Jahan’s wives – Fatehpuri Begum, it was taken over by Britishers during the War of Independence in 1857 CE. A few decades later it was handed back to the Muslims. The interim years saw much vandalism within its precincts.

From there through Tilak Bazar the cyclists reach a Tamil bastion called Madras Colony, bang in the middle of a typical North Indian setting. The settlement is fronted by a temple done in Dravidian architectural style. A miniature gopuram with colorful sculptures reminiscent of the famous Meenakshi temple of Madurai comes up against the run of play. Unlike a heritage walk, there is no detailed description by the guide. See and observe are the buzzwords of this initiative. Pure experience!

Leaving this behind the cyclists enter a quarter of town developed by the British. Civil Lines stands out in sharp contrast with its broad tree lined avenues, well appointed roads. The colonial flavor comes through in the architecture of Raj Bhavan and hotel Oberoi Maiden. All the cyclists tend to down their guard and pedal at a leisurely pace on this stretch. The group breaks for tea at a charming little chai (tea) shop under a towering tree. All the cyclists get their first chance to catch up with each other here. This area was developed in the aftermath of the 1857. The tension between Indians and Britishers led the latter to develop this township away from the walled city.

Rejuvenated after an hour’s cycling, the pace quickens hereafter. The route skirts past the edges of Old Delhi railway station through a track next to Mahatma Gandhi park. Through a footpath the cyclists reach the Chandni Chowk metro station. Nearby stands the historic Sheesh Ganj gurudwara. Riding along the main arterial road of the Chandni Chowk area, the cyclists turn towards Karim’s for breakfast. It is a landmark restaurant for its mughlai cuisine.

The last leg of the tour starts near Jama Masjid, the monumental mosque built by Shah Jahan. Lanes here are so tight that two cyclist coming from either side would struggle to get past each other. This stretch is done at a brisk pace to avoid any hold-up. The cyclists finally gets out onto the main road near Ajmeri Gate.

This cycling tour is a welcome addition for travelers looking for an out-of-the-box experience in what is often referred to as the ‘heart of Delhi’.

Special Attributes

Offers a fresh perspective through a carefully worked out route

Nuisance

None

Dressing restrictions

Dress conservatively as one would be going through old neighbourhoods

Connectivity

Metro-rail, taxi or auto-rickshaw

Enjoyed by

Culture, history and adventure enthusiasts

Exposure

Minimal, as the tour starts early in the day

Avoidable Season

Open through the year

Facilities

Basic

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction.

Tip

Go with the flow and be alive to ever changing scenarios

Type of site

Cycling Tour