Introduction

As the largest and the oldest surviving monastery in the Nubra Valley, Diskit Monastery or Diskit Gompa occupies a special place in the history of Tibetan Buddhism and belongs to its Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect. Changzem Tserab Zangpo, the disciple of Tsong Khapa, the founder of this sect, established the monastery in the 14th century. Standing unnervingly on a hill right above the flood plains of the Shayok River, the Diskit Gompa happens to be a sublet of the Thikse Monastery in the Indus Valley, owing to the handing over of its control to the Rinpoche of Thikse Monastery in the mid 18th century.

Diskit village, which stands at an altitude of 3,144 meters (10,310 feet), frequently becomes a forced refuge for people during the winter season when harsh snowfall and landslides cripple all sorts of communication with the outside world. That’s when the monastery turns into a full fledged gathering ground for the spiritually inclined and even others. The path that leads to the monastery is a fleet of stone steps, a climb of which will bring you to the prayer hall where a big statue of Maitreya Buddha has been kept. The architecture of the monastery is typically Tibetan with various (slightly damaged but few renovated) murals inside it depicting paintings of the Guardians of the world, whose images grimly grace the second floor chamber as well. An enormous drum can also be seen inside the prayer hall, as the room remains densely decked with the trademark Tibetan color-patterned silk. There’s even a fresco of the Tashilhunpo Monastery of Tibet on a slightly elevated cupola, besides numerous shrines around and Buddhist texts from Mongolia and Tibet inside the storehouse.

An ancient legend, finding its connection to Mongol mythology, fantastically shrouds the monastery in mystery and fascination. According to the legend, a Mongol demon, staunchly against Buddhism had made the very place where the monastery stands today his home until he was finally slain. But even after his death the demon is said to have gone through several resurrections, coming back to this place over and over again in a lifeless form. What’s more eerily intriguing is the belief that the demon’s severed but wrinkled head and hand lie somewhere inside a dark Gon-Khang (temple) within the monastery, safely clutched by a pot-bellied Guardian deity amidst several fierce Gods and Goddesses.

Diskit Monastery is home to about 100 monks who get real busy in the month of February to celebrate the Festival of the Scapegoat, which is known as Desmochhey or Dosmoche. This is a highly popular prayer festival that’s celebrated with equal enthusiasm in Likir as well. The highlight of the festival is a mask dance that is performed by the Lamas to portray the victory of good over evil and to ward off ill-fate for the coming times. This is probably the only time when the heads of the deities go bare as the cloths covering them are removed. A visit to the Diskit Monastery will offer you a chance to develop a wholly fresh perspective about life, one that will only deepen your ties with spiritualism.

Diskit village is the headquarters of the Nubra Valley with several government offices within it, although the facilities available are still at the basic level. The guesthouses in Diskit, which are quite a handful in number, can offer tourists the basic needs besides a comfortable stay and awesome views of the valley. A couple of restaurants operating in the village offer various culinary delights and some more options than the guesthouses.

Special Attributes

Over 500 year old monastery dedicated to Tsong Khapa, founder of the Gelugpa Sect under Tibetan Buddhism.

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

None. Wrap up in warm clothes as temperature can go down drastically during evenings.

Connectivity

Transport buses ply four times a week from Leh to Diskit, although the frequency is quite less. If you are taking a bus it's best that you book your return in advance to avoid getting left out due to insufficient seats. Taxis/Jeeps also available on private and shared basis.

Enjoyed by

Backpackers, nature lovers.

Exposure

You will remain outdoors mostly. Wear a hat and carry sunglasses and water with you during the day as the sun can be a bit harsh in this desert zone. Winter temperature dips down below freezing point.

Avoidable Season

December, January, February, March, April

Facilities

Basic. Plan accordingly

Things Not Allowed

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Tip

Embark early in the morning and keep your pen and notebook handy to document some interesting facts. Carry a camera to capture the intriguing paintings and the views of the valley.

Type of site

Monastery