Introduction

At an elevation of 3096 meters (10,157 feet) and 28 kilometers (17 miles) from Panamik, Sumur village rests along the Nubra River and is an amazingly picturesque settlement with vast expanses of green fields reaching up till the valley parapets. As the largest village in the Nubra Valley, Sumur has quite a decent assortment of attractions to offer to its visitors. Ancient Buddhist relics that immediately invite intriguing thoughts of awe are some of these interesting elements that you can find here. Other than Diskit, Sumur is the only other village in Nubra Valley that organizes a grand festival every year with camel races, ibex and peacock dances, traditional archery competitions, traditional marriage ceremonies, war dances and even flower exhibitions. Visit the village during the festival period and you will be up close and personal with the culture and heritage of Ladakh.

However, the biggest attraction of Sumur village is undoubtedly the Samstemling Gompa or Samstemling Monastery. The monastery, which was founded by Lama Tsultrim Nima more than 150 years ago, was initially introduced by the name of Rezong Gompa. As an entire complex comprising seven different temples, it is a fabulous storehouse of a huge collection of thangkas and arduously restored frescoes, which can be found, distributed neatly across the several prayer halls here. Situated about 3 kilometers away from the village, taking you through a languid and scenic uphill walk of about forty minutes Samstemling opens up some amazing views of the valley. About a hundred Gelugpa monks between the ages of 7 and 70 live in this monastery and keep themselves busy with apple and apricot gardening besides their usual spiritual activities. The present Dalai Lama had visited this monastery in 2003 and you can even go and take a look at the apartments where he had stayed. Statues of various guardian deities with lucid strokes of ferocity on their faces stand guard near the gon-khang out in the courtyard, calling for some interesting photo documentation. Entry for women however, is forbidden after sunset and before sunrise. So if you are a female tourist or visiting the monastery with one then you better leave early (after sunrise though) to see everything that it offers to its visitors.

The prayer ceremony, which is conducted every morning and evening, is something to be really watched out for. It is when the lamas and the monks get busy in unified chanting and carrying on with their daily ritual of monastic life. Since the prayer ceremony happens real early in the morning, it would be better if you stayed overnight in Sumur to catch it properly the next morning. In any case even the evening prayer would leave you with no option but to stay back, as the prayer continues for quite some time and public transport services are off for the day by then.

Special Attributes

Over 150 years old, the Samstemling Gompa houses some amazing Buddhist relics like thangkas and murals.

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

None. Wrap up in warm clothes as temperature can go down drastically during evenings.

Connectivity

Public transport buses connect Sumur to Leh (8hrs, Tuesday & Thursday), to Diskit (4hrs, Thursday & Sunday) and to Panamik (1.5hrs, Monday & Wednesday). Taxis & jeeps are also available from specific points.

Enjoyed by

Backpackers, nature lovers.

Exposure

You will fluctuate between remaining indoors and outdoors. Wear a hat and carry sunglasses and water with you during the day as the sun can be a bit harsh in this desert zone. Winter temperature dips down below freezing point.

Avoidable Season

November, December, January, February, March, April

Facilities

Basic. Plan accordingly

Things Not Allowed

No such restrictions

Tip

Leave early, prepared for a languid but scenic walk to Samstemling Gompa, with a camera to capture your memorable visit.

Type of site

Monastery