Introduction

About 20 kilometers (12.5 miles) from mainland Rameshwaram, Dhanushkodi was a prospering port town, home of around 25,000 inhabitants. It was a peaceful, predominantly fishing community with a college, school, hospital, markets, an ancient Lord Rama temple, a church, a post office, and so much as a railway station. But only until the fateful night of 22 December 1964. Close to midnight the sea suddenly swelled and lashed this little coastal village with gigantic tidal waves followed by a great cyclone. Wiping out in its wake the railway track, and with it the train that was arriving into the Dhanushkodi railway station from Rameshwaram with 115 passengers aboard. Just about everything Dhanushkodi could ever put together, from people to property, every trace of habitation was obliterated and easily swept away by the dark waters.

After the atrocious night dawned a silent morning in whose weak light laid a landscape of enormous sand dunes, burying underneath an entire town that once was. And Dhanushkodi became a ghost town, abandoned, forlorn, never to be inhabited again. But after all these years, the sand has receded, and some of the ruins have emerged from within. To walk around these ruins is an emotional experience. Today many tourists find their way to this forsaken coastal hamlet to soak up the atmosphere, look at the quiet blue sea that once wrecked havoc, examine the ruins, and take another look at the sea. At the confluence of the Bay of Bengal and Indian Ocean, Dhanushkodi - outside of attracting tourists - is also a forward outpost of the Indian Navy.

It’s a fine drive from Rameshwaram to Dhanushkodi on a road straight as a die, with the ocean stretching out on either side. On arriving at the fishing village, you might want to buy a few knickknacks and shell jewelry from an enthusiastic shopkeeper, as you await your turn to board the mini-truck or jeep. From the naval outpost, travel in a small truck to the tip of Rameshwaram – the site where Dhanushkodi once thrived. The specially designed small trucks charge something close to INR 500 for the 40-minute ride to and fro. Only 18 kilometers (11.25 miles) ahead is the Sri Lankan border.

An exhilarating drive through the ocean on a sandy trail brings you to the town of Dhanushkodi forgotten in time. Amid an air of desolation, dilapidated temples among other ruins stand tossed on the sandbank, while an aqua blue sea shimmers back at you from a distance. Your guide will show you around the place and orient you with what-is-what including the deep hole from where fresh (not salty!) water was raised. From here the trail of the Adam’s Bridge is astonishingly conspicuous. Dhanushkodi is surreal and evocative; the haunting silence of the place, the soft lapping of a crystal-clear sea that once turned dark and created mayhem, the glorious ruins, and bright sunshine, fill you with immense sadness, as much as with hope.

Blessedly, Dhanushkodi was spared from any major damage by the Asian Tsunami that struck on 26 December 2004.

Special Attributes

A trip to Dhanushkodi involves a wonderful drive through the ocean on a narrow sandy trail. It is surreal.

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Dress in whatever you find comfortable.

Connectivity

Hire a taxi or drive your own vehicle.

Enjoyed by

Nature Lovers, History Lovers, Senior Citizens, Backpackers, and those who are religiously inclined

Exposure

You will be under the open sky of the island town. The sun could be harsh in the noon, so carry along your sunglasses, hat, sunscreen lotion, and a bottle of drinking water.

Avoidable Season

April, May, June, July, August, September, October, November

Facilities

You can clearly see the legendary Adam's Bridge or Ram Setu from here.

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction

Tip

Visit as early in the day as possible, before the sun comes up in the sky.

Type of site

Ruins/Beach