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Contents

 

  1. History
  2. Getting Around
  3. Tourist Traps
  4. Local Customs
  5. Shopping
  6. Communications

Of all the valleys in Himachal’s district of Kinnaur, it is perhaps the Sangla Valley - also called the Baspa Valley after the river that flows through it – that is perhaps the most beautiful. (Older guide books and travelogues refer to this curving valley as the ‘Baspa Valley’ after the river; more recent ones call it the 'Sangla Valley' after the main village). It is a blaze of saffron fields, thick woods of deodar (Himalayan cedar) and waters of clear snow melt that set out to create a combination of fire and ice calmed by deep green forests. Unlike most other major streams of the area that flow north to south, the river Baspa flows north-west to meet the churning torrents of the river Satluj at Karcham. Along the sides of the lower hills, rise snow clad mountains and thick forests of Himalayan cedar. These woods are garnished with spruce, alder and the unusual birch - the ‘bhojpatra’ tree whose peeling bark served as parchment for ancient Indian texts. Chocolate-box pictures of villages, orchards and fields fill the valley floor.

The ninety-five kilometer long valley gets off to a fairly unimpressive start - debris from the hydel project, a fast flowing stream and then, a road up a narrow defile. It is along this stretch that one sees the determination of the chil pine that grows out of sheer rock faces - and whose cones yield the tasty kernel, the rare ‘dry fruit’, the chilgoza. And after this corridor, like curtains tossed aside to reveal the setting of a grand stage, the valley bursts open at Kupa. From this point on, every turn and every angle reveals a valley that is strikingly beautiful. As if to savor all this, the waters of the Baspa also slow down and the little river that moments ago showed the visage of a savage mountain stream, now turns calm and welcoming.

Like the rest of Kinnaur, there are no urban centres in the valley - and like most other parts of the administrative district, the people of the valley practice an unusual mix of Trans Himalayan (Vajrayana) Buddhism and Hinduism. Interestingly, for what was till very recently quite the ‘back of the beyond’ with limited educational and other facilities, an unusual distinction of the valley is the large number of people it has sent into the Indian civil service and police. Between Kupa and Chitkul - roughly halfway up the valley - the area is fairly populous and cultivated. Human habitation ends at Chitkul and from then on to the lofty Chung Saghgo Pass it is a trek route through raw rock and snow, which leads to the hills of Uttarakhand. The Sangla Valley is a leisure destination that takes some getting to, has a touch of adventure and nature quite sublime. There is some splendid folk architecture, long and short hikes and treks - and in season, trout fishing along the Baspa.

History

Kinnaur was a part of the erstwhile princely state of Bushair. From their original seat in the village of Kamru, the rulers moved out to Sarahan that lies lower down the Satluj, and then to Rampur - which is built on the banks of the river. In the early nineteenth century, when the Gurkha’s spilled out of the borders of nearby Nepal, they captured large tracts of present-day Himachal Pradesh. Bushair also fell into their hands and the infant ruler was scurried to safety in Kinnaur. With their growing power, the British intervened, the Gurkhas were expelled and the treaty of Sagauli was signed in 1815-16. Soon after, most of the original rulers were restored their seats, and the British presence in the area was firmly established. Given the proximity to Tibet, it is not surprising that there are strong cultural and religious links with that distinctive land. These have manifested themselves in dress, language, architecture, customs and, most visibly, in religion. The main body of Hinduism has been embellished with several Buddhist practices. It is commonplace to find images of the Buddha and other deities and saints of Trans Himalayan Buddhism like Avaloketeshwara and Padmasambhava, side by side with those of Hindu gods. And 'chortens', the sacred obelisk like structures of Vajrayana Buddhism may well mark the entry to a Hindu temple.

Getting Around

If you have your own vehicle, preferably an SUV or a sturdy car with adequate ground clearance, moving around the valley becomes much easier. This is also possible if you have hired a vehicle for your trip. Otherwise, taxis can be hired at different places in the valley – especially in Sangla village. Limited bus service is available. The place is a treat for good walkers – you need not be a high-fitness hiker; this will unfold far more of the area which remains restricted if you are sticking to the highway.

Tourist Traps in the City

Not as such

Local Custom

The people of the valley are warm and welcoming. They also expect politeness and courtesy in return. Respect local usages and customs.

Shopping

Regular shopping for handicrafts and souvenirs is not easily available. However, a good way of picking up ‘that something to remember the trip by’ is by strolling through the villages and taking some suggestions from the camp or hotel manager - or the ‘rest house’ attendant. They often provide good links to the actual craftsmen and you may be able to pick up an unusual scatter rug made of goat-hair, a piece of silver jewellery - or just some fresh fruits or the specialty beans of the valley. There is really no benchmark for prices and these can vary from craftsman to craftsman.

Communications

Internet availability is limited to a few places. STD booths are available along the length of the valley. The connections of most GSM providers (Airtel, Vodafone and Idea) function well apart from a few 'dead pockets'.

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