Introduction

Dhankar is seven kilometers from the turn off at Schichling on the Tabo-Kaza highway. Centuries old, Dhankar is an excellent example of how fort-monasteries were built in the area and speaks volumes for the building skills of its makers. Perched atop a series of outcrops along a spur, Dhankar has a formidable appearance as it rises tier by tier. The structures are connected, one to the other by passages cut along the rock face, sharp staircases and ladders and narrow corridors. For a long time, this was the old capital of Spiti and the seat of the ruler, the Nono. As Spiti was placed between relatively powerful neighbors – Ladakh, Kullu and Bushair – it was subjected to repeated attacks. From the heights of Dhankar, rocks would be rolled down to fend off the invaders. The story is told of the time when an invading force from Ladakh were invited to a grand feast in winter and were plied with inebriating chaang, a local liquor. When they were drunk, they were pushed off the cliff. Those who managed to escape were claimed by the bitter cold.

Today’s Dhankar is not so sanguine and the newer extensions of the monastery are not as formidable as they once were. The monastery was substantially added-to at the time of the ‘kaalchakra’ ceremony conducted by His Holiness the Dalai Lama at Tabo as a part of the Millennium Celebrations in 1996. Dhankar is also a repository of Buddhist scriptures in the Bhoti script.

Special Attributes

High altitude monastery

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Conservative and comfortable attire is recommended. Since these are remote areas, it is best to avoid shorts and the like. Always factor in local sensibilities.

Connectivity

Walking

Enjoyed by

Art and history buffs, besides those who are religiously inclined

Exposure

None indoors, but high outside. Appropriate precautions like headgear and sunscreen lotion are suggested.

Avoidable Season

October, November, December, January, February, March

Facilities

Basic, plan accordingly

Things Not Allowed

No shoes in some parts

Tip

Be careful of your step in the older section. Some parts are tricky

Type of site

Monastery