Introduction

Regarded as ‘the temple of temples’, the Brihadeeswara temple or Rajarajesvaram in the Thanjavur district, is not just an expression of artistic brilliance, but also a way of life. This Dravidian architectural marvel was conceived during the heyday of Chola rule around the turn of the first millennium AD by the great Rajaraja Chola I. A great patron of art, most magnificent of temples across South India and exquisite bronze icons came up during his reign. Brihadeeswara temple for centuries has attracted fascinated artists, curious historians, sociologists, and travelers who delight in its wealth of sculptures, beautiful calligraphy, frescoes, and over a hundred inscriptions engraved on the walls. The entire history of the complex and the story of the contemporary society are recounted on its walls, pillars and podiums, making it a rare wealth of indefinable value to the history lover.

Brihadeeswara is a temple of majestic proportions walled within a huge compound of 15 meter (50 foot), and spread out over a 29-meter (97 foot) square base. Its inner sanctum and sculpture-rich gopuram (spire) was built over a period of 12 years, of a single piece of granite weighing around 80 tons. A rectangular corridor consisting of two squares encloses the sanctum tower or Srivimana. While the main tower is in the center part of the rear square, with 16 tiers soaring 60 meter (200 foot) over Thanjavur skyline. You will notice several stucco features on the vimana among inscriptions on the contribution of Rajaraja Chola and his sister. Don’t miss out the sculpted 108 dance postures of Lord Shiva in the inner wall of the sanctum sanctorum. The massive Shivalingam here is called Rajarajeshwaramudvya, and is set in a two-storeyed sanctum.

Scholars have deciphered a wealth of information on the jewelry of the period; there are believed to be details on 66 different varieties of ornaments, their composition, and the rubies and diamonds used in them. This also includes an elaborate account on the social and cultural life of the people of the times, of Rajaraja’s conquests, his army and navy, administrative prowess and religious tolerance, down to the engravings of names of streets where shepherds and temple women lived. The depth of documentation in these engravings brings to light the great Chola king’s eye for detail.

Explore the spacious ground of the Brihadeeswara temple, its pillared halls, shrines and 250 Shivalingams. You will come across two Ganesha idols in the corridor that leads you to the sanctum sanctorum; they are unique because on tapping the two you can feel the sound travel through stone in one idol and through metal in the other. See the gigantic Nandi idol housed in the Nayak Mandapam. It is 12-foot-high and weighs about 25 tons; this monolith is believed to have been brought over from a bed of Gneiss at the foot of Pachaimalai near Perambalur. Legend has it that the Nandi began to grow in size after it was placed in the mandapam. Subsequently, the locals thought to stop it from bloating by driving a nail into its back. Since then its size has apparently stayed unchanged. This one is believed to be among the largest Nandi idols in the country.

Rajarajesvaram in its heyday was not a mere place of worship, it was an institution of learning, a hub of activity for people from different walks of life, from scholars, architects, dancers, painters, musicians, sculptors, potters, blacksmiths, to carpenters – all of whom looked up to the temple for their livelihood. The king offered so much as war booty at the shrine, which also served as a treasury. Festivals including the king’s coronation were celebrated here with great pomp and vigor, what with local artists putting up cultural performances and musical shows.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the sheer scale of the all-stone Brihadeeswara temple, its height and architectural detailing make it an unrivaled paradigm of artistic expression in a temple. Planned and designed by Sama Varma, the structure curiously doesn’t throw its shadow on the ground at any time of the year. Perhaps symbolic of the fact that the Supreme is considered to be present and yet not present.

Special Attributes

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, and perhaps one of the most beautiful and elaborate temple complexes in the world.

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Dress conservatively. Avoid wearing short or revealing clothes.

Connectivity

You can take an auto-rickshaw, cycle-rickshaw or a tourist cab from the city center.

Enjoyed by

Architecture and History Lovers, and those who are religiously inclined

Exposure

You will be both in the sun and shade since it is a huge complex. It is advisable to carry your sunshades, sunscreen lotion and a bottle of drinking water.

Avoidable Season

March, April, May, June, July, August, September

Facilities

Basic, plan accordingly

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction

Tip

An early morning visit to the shrine is preferable, before the pilgrims/tourists begin to trickle in. And don’t forget to take lots of pictures!

Type of site

Hindu shrine/ temple site