Introduction

Located on the south-eastern side of Padmanabha Swamy Temple, the Kuthiramalika Palace appears rather nondescript from outside. Only once you enter through the narrow gate, past a narrow corridor and step onto its sprawling courtyard garden, do you get an estimate of its scale and architectural detailing. Mostly a wooden palace, Kuthiramalika is a traditional Kerala-style structure built in the 1840s by the king of Travancore Maharaja Swathi Thirunal Balarama Varma. Interestingly, the palace gets its name from the 108 horses carved into the wooden brackets that reinforce the southern roof. Though, the official name of the palace is Puthenmalika, meaning new mansion. Little would you surmise that such a beautiful, well-preserved building was actually left unoccupied for over a century following the demise of Swathi Thirunal in 1846.

If the generous use of teak, rosewood, granite and marble lend the palace a quaint charm, the traditional Travancore-style exquisite wood carvings bring out its character. Some of the most elaborate carvings within the palace are the two thrones; one made entirely of ivory and the other of Bohemian Crystal. To create this Keralan architectural gem, about 5000 workers were engaged for four years. While browsing the house you will fall in love with its typical features such as the brick gabled roofs, the plunging eaves, long columned verandahs and enclosed courtyards.

You would, not to mention, need a guide to explore this beautiful maze of a palace. He will help you with its history, show you around the museum, and orient you with the different rooms and the purpose they served including the lavish bath area, the reading room/library and the octagonal hall where the king, an ardent music lover, composed music.

A section of the palace has been converted into a museum to house the priceless assets owned by the Travancore royal family. This, otherwise, dimly lit hall displays a rare collection of life-size Kathakali mannequins each sporting a different abhinaya (expression or mood), Belgian mirrors, crystal chandeliers, paintings, armaments, elephant howdahs and musical instruments among other memorabilia. Take the wooden staircase to the first floor to explore the rooms that once served as the audience chamber, the library, the alcove where Swathi Thirunal meditated and conceived many of his famous musical compositions. From this part of the palace you can catch sight of the gopuram of the Padmanabha Swamy temple, which is believed to have been a source of inspiration for the king in composing his verses. On display at one of the audience chambers is a massive urn - now empty, the urn in its heyday used to remain filled with mango pickle for the workers of the palace, who had it everyday with steamed rice for lunch. Another curious attraction in the palace complex is the musical tree that produces the seven ‘swaras’ when tapped!

Keeping alive this tradition of music is an annual music festival, Swathi Sangeethotsavam, hosted in the courtyard of Kuthiramalika Palace from the 6th to 12th January. The festival receives stalwarts of Carnatic and Hindustani classical music, among many talented upcoming artists.

Puthenmalika is truly a hidden treasure in the heart of the fast urbanizing capital of Kerala.

Special Attributes

It is a beautiful Kerala-style structure embellished with exquisite rosewood carvings.

Nuisance

Beggars, Hawkers

Dressing restrictions

Dress in whatever you find comfortable.

Connectivity

From the railway station in East Fort, the site is at a walkable distance.

Enjoyed by

Must for history and architecture aficionados

Exposure

You will mostly be indoors.

Avoidable Season

Open through the year

Facilities

You can visit the Padmanabha Swamy Temple which is adjacent to the palace museum. Besides, you are in the heart of the city and can visit various sightseeing attractions on the same day.

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction

Tip

Hire a guide. Listen to him carefully, else you will miss out a lot, and turn your phone to silent mode.

Type of site

Palace museum/ Architectural marvel