Introduction

This is the residence of the Maharaja of Varanasi, popularly known as ‘Kashi Naresh’. The Ramnagar Fort lies about 14 kilometers (9 miles) south of Varanasi along the eastern bank of Ganga. Its picturesque location by the river makes it popular with visitors. A pontoon bridge connects the fort to the city. During monsoon months the bridge is dismantled and replaced by a ferry. By road it can be approached from the long main road that crosses the Malaviya Bridge up north near Raj Ghat. You then drive down the eastern bank of the river. Chartering a boat from Dashaswamedh Ghat or Asi Ghat are other options.

Maharaja Balwant Singh built this fort and the palace in its ramparts in the eighteenth century. Constructed in red sandstone, its architectural features include carved balconies, open courtyards and picturesque pavilions. The temple within the fort is dedicated to Ved Vyasa, the divine writer who scripted the great Indian epic - Mahabharata. Legend has it that Ved Vyasa stayed here for a brief period.

Another attraction of the fort is its museum. Horse-drawn carriages, old motor cars, palanquins, ornate gilded and silver howdahs (elephant seats), hookahs, costumes, armory, ivory carvings, an astronomical clock and hunting trophies are prominently on display here. It gives you a glimpse into the lifestyle of the royal family.

Across the courtyard, a section is devoted to the Ram Lila festivities held during Dussehra in October. Ramnagar is renowned for its Ram Lila. Episodes from the Ramayana are re-enacted and the maharaja sponsors a month long elaborate celebrations. The colorful pageant kicks off with the maharaja riding an elephant. The procession culminates with the inauguration of folk theater by him. There are many versions of Ram Lila across the country. Ramnagar follows the Tulsidas Ramcharitramanas narrative.

In terms of stylistic presentation too, Ramnagar stands apart. Ram Lila is enacted on a single stage across India, but in Ramnagar the whole town is transformed into a vast Ram Lila ground. Permanent structures are built and spaces designated to represent the main locations of the story. Therefore you have Ashok Vatika and Lanka at different locations in the town. The audience moves along with the performers with every episode, to the next location. With the bare minimum use of lights, mikes and loudspeakers, the character of the event is dignified and restrained in feel, one that is in keeping with the temperament of the local populace. But despite the minimum use of electronics, the event draws viewers by the thousand.

Special Attributes

Home of the royal family, it is also famous for its distinctive Ram Lila

Nuisance

The site is very peaceful and free of irritants.

Dressing restrictions

Dress is whatever you find comfortable.

Connectivity

One can take a boat from Asi Ghat or use the pontoon bridge

Enjoyed by

Culture buffs

Exposure

Minimal exposure as you'll mostly be under a roof

Avoidable Season

July, August

Facilities

Basic, plan accordingly

Things Not Allowed

No such restriction

Tip

Take a boat ride to cross over Varanasi, it gives a lovely view of the Fort

Type of site

Fort